Must Unwashed Denim Be Hemmed?

Cuffing jeans is a common choice for fans of raw denim and Amekaji-heritage clothing. Raw denim should be worn for at least 6 months before washing to prevent dye fading before it has been sufficiently distressed. However, jeans should be washed once before heming.

When to hem raw denim jeans? A pair of jeans from Gustin (Okayama Standard) was purchased about 9 months ago and the fit is nice and age appropriate. The article discusses the three phases of buying raw denim and what you should ask yourself when choosing between heming and not heming.

Denim is designed to be washed when dirty, as not doing so will increase bacteria and debris in the material. When hemming quality raw denim jeans, it is important to leave a little extra when leaving the original hem. Sewing with denim requires a powerful sewing machine and needles. The first step is finding the correct length your jeans should be hemmed to according to the style of jeans you have.

Hemming raw denim doesn’t “screw up the shape”, but it can be tailored. A raw hem gives an effortless, undone look that adds an edge to any outfit. However, getting jeans hemmed is easier than extending them, so the inseam ends up very long across all sizes.

One downside of raw denim is that they do shorten with time, and after more than a year, they may be too short. Some people have kept their raw denim hems longer, but this is not recommended for everyone.

How should raw denim fit?

To shrink unsanforized denim jeans, follow these steps:

1. Determine your size by going up one or two sizes from your normal waist size. The jeans should feel roomy with two fingers of space in the waistband and a pinch of fabric in the thigh area.

2. Determine the ideal water temperature to determine the amount of shrinkage. Hot tap water is recommended for waist shrinkage, lukewarm water for a 1-inch shrinkage, and cold water for less than 1-inch shrinkage. If unsure, soak the jeans in cold water first to prevent overstretching.

3. Find a suitable soaking vessel, such as a bathtub, sink, or bucket, to fit the jeans. Do not wear them while soaking, as boiling water can damage the fabric and leather patch.

Does raw denim soften over time?

The Sosobrothers jeans are both stylish and durable, with a lifespan that can be extended through the implementation of careful repairs. With the passage of time, the jeans evolve into a distinctive work of art, exhibiting a distinctive faded and soft texture that can withstand a year of wear. To commence your denim exploration, it is essential to ascertain the optimal fit and size for your jeans.

Are raw hems still in style in 2024?

Denim jeans are currently on-trend with various lengths, including cropped, full, and floor-sweeping styles. Low rises are back, but not yet mainstream, while mid and high rises are mainstream and here to stay. Three rise lengths are on-trend, with low rises achieved by wearing a fitted front low rise of about 8 inches or by wearing the waistbands of higher rise slouchy silhouettes on the hips.

Dyes are available in various colors, including blue, black, grey, white, cream, non-neutral, embellished, acid watch, patterned, and patchwork denim. Distressing is less prominent, with shredded denim being light and faded, but rarely intentional distressing. Raw-edged hems are still present and can be hemmed shorter with scissors.

Fits range from tailored and fluidly tailored shapes to fluid and slouchy oversized silhouettes. Denim fits are generally roomier and more relaxed than they have been in decades. To update your jeans with a more on-trend pair, choose a silhouette with a bit or a lot of width somewhere on the hips and legs, or in both areas.

Top denim trends include the relaxed straight leg, which is mainstream and still going strong. The cut is relaxed on the leg, straight down to the hem, and the rise is low, mid, or high. Mid and high rises are more available, and the fit is fluidly tailored or fluid, similar to tailored boyfriend jeans. Lengths vary, so take your pick.

Are raw hem jeans in fashion?

The popularity of jeans with frayed hems is on the rise. The recent focus on this style has prompted many individuals to alter their preferred jeans by cutting the hems with scissors, in order to align themselves with the prevailing trend.

Why is raw denim so uncomfortable?

Raw denim is a denim fabric that has not undergone any washing or processing after dyeing. This results in a distinctive stiff, dark, indigo wash on the jeans.

What are the disadvantages of raw denim?

Raw denim, also known as “dry denim”, is a type of jeans made from denim that has not undergone a pre-washing process. This type of jeans are stiff and take a few weeks of regular wear to break-in. Raw denim comes in two types: sanforized and unsanforized. Sanforized denim has a chemical treatment that prevents shrinkage after washing, and most mass-produced jeans are sanforized. Unsanforized denim hasn’t been treated with this shrink-preventing chemical, so when washing or soaking jeans, they will shrink by 5-10.

Selvedge denim is a type of denim produced on shuttle looms, which produce tightly woven strips of heavy fabric with finished edges to prevent fraying, raveling, or curling. The edges come out of the loom finished, making it known as having a “self-edge” denim. The pros and cons of raw denim are discussed in the pros and cons section.

Should you get raw denim hemmed?

The hem on your jeans should be precise, regardless of whether you’re a beginner or a seasoned fader. Inseam length and the way you hem your jeans are crucial factors to consider. Our second-generation Union Special 43200G sewing machine, dating from the 1950s, can provide the same stitch as the machine used on denim from the early-mid 19th century. This machine is one of a few still operable in the United States, as most were bought up and shipped internationally to denim manufacturers in Japan.

We hope to continue offering chain stitch hems on the antique machine for years to come. The chain stitch is a traditional type of stitch used to hem jeans, found on most artisan-made denim and antique pairs. The feed dog of the machine pulls the denim as the stitch is set, allowing for the desired “roping” effect along the hem edge with wear over time. To hem your jeans, follow these steps with accompanying imagery.

What length to hem raw denim?

The double cuff is a popular method of cuffing jeans, creating a stronger, thicker cuff that hides the hemline. This style is often matched with boots and larger shoes and can be performed on fabrics of all kinds. It is an excellent way to show off the weft of jeans, especially if the fabric has a dyed or unique weft. The flat inseam involves hemming jeans to your appropriate natural inseam length, allowing the leg opening to lay flat atop your preferred footwear. This style can be done straight or with a “break”, a small amount of excess fabric used to create creases near the leg opening.

Stacking is a popular street culture and streetwear technique that involves bunching excess fabric on jeans near the lower portion of the legs. It can be achieved by keeping an extra-long inseam length relative to your natural inseam length. The true aesthetic of stacking isn’t typically achieved unless the leg openings of the jeans are significantly slim. The slim leg opening helps balance out the proportions of the creases in the lower leg and provides some added texture to a new pair of jeans. The stacked look is often reserved for darker (typically black) and medium to heavyweight denim, but can be applied to fabrics of all types.

Does raw denim get looser?

Raw denim growth occurs due to stress and stretching, with high-stress areas like the rise and thigh experiencing the most growth. The waistband also experiences significant growth due to stress and stretching while sitting. The inseam rarely changes until washing, with small shrinkage in the inseam attributed to horizontal stretching, pulling vertical yards closer together, fabric wrinkles, and wearing jeans in the rain.

Water will always shrink raw denim. New to raw denim, jeans may shrink a full size smaller after the first wash. However, broken-in jeans will stretch and grow after a day or two of wear, but will never reach their original size.

Does raw denim shrink in length?

For a tapered long-term fit, ensure the denim fits snug from the start, giving room for wear. The initial fit serves as a reference point for shrinkage after washing, and the longer the denim is worn and washed, the less it will fluctuate. If you want a looser fit, go up a size, as the denim won’t stretch much and shrinks back 3-5 from the initial fit. The only permanent shrinkage is in leg length, which won’t stretch out with wear after washing.

Raw denim is beautiful because it molds, shapes, and fades according to your life. You can control the outcome of raw denim by choosing options 1-2, as 3-4 kills the charm of raw denim. Option 1: Don’t wash at all, considering dry cleaning to kill bacteria without affecting color. Eventually, fading is unavoidable, but the overall raw indigo look will stick. Option 2: Wear the denim for at least a year without washing, then wash at low temperature (30-40°C).

Option 3: Wash before wearing to maintain an even color and reduce fading, using a gentle soaking in cold water followed by a 30°C machine wash. Option 4: Wash at 60°C for little to no contrast over time, making the denim more classic blue than dark indigo and won’t fade much.

Does raw denim ever get soft?

Breaking in raw denim can be uncomfortable, especially for tight or heavier denim. However, it will eventually soften as you wear it. To prolong the wear and prevent crotch blowouts and other rips, soak the jeans before wearing them. New raw denim may experience ‘bleeding’ or ‘crocking’, where the color rubs off. Soaking may minimize this, but the extent depends on the denim. Bleeding denim is not harmful, but it may not be ideal for certain surfaces. If you don’t want the color to appear on your white leather sofa, don’t worry about it coming off in the wash.