Solar generators are portable battery storage systems that convert solar energy from the sun into electrical AC power. They work by collecting solar energy through solar panels and storing it in a built-in solar battery. An inverter then converts the stored energy into usable electricity, which is essential for most electronics in homes. Solar generators use photovoltaic panels that capture photons from the sun, releasing electrons from the semiconductors within them, usually silicon.
Unlike traditional generators that run on gasoline or oil, solar generators use sunlight to convert solar energy into electricity. The power station stores energy in batteries, while the solar panel collects energy from the sun and converts it into electricity. Solar generators are no fuel dependent, eliminating the need for fuel, saving money in the long run.
Solar generators are essentially a built-in battery, inverter, and charge controller all into one unit. They are used to power homes and vehicles, capturing, storing, and distributing electric power generated from sunlight. They are essential for a variety of electronic devices, making them a cost-effective and environmentally friendly solution for homes and businesses.
📹 DO NOT Buy A Solar Generator Until You Watch This Video First
DO NOT Buy A Solar Generator Until You Watch This Video First If you would like to help support the channel then check out our …
How does a solar generator work?
Solar generators use photovoltaic panels to capture sun-generated photons, releasing electrons that flow as DC electricity. This DC energy is then converted into a portable power station (PPS) with a battery, built-in inverter, and balance of system components. The PPS converts DC electricity into AC electricity, which is needed for most appliances and devices. The PPS can be connected to an EcoFlow Smart Home Panel for easy integration into household electricity, allowing appliances to remain plugged into wall outlets. This system allows for efficient and cost-effective energy generation.
How does solar energy work for students?
Solar photovoltaic (PV) devices convert sunlight into electricity, enabling the powering of small electronic devices like calculators and watches. Solar energy, sourced from the sun, has been used for thousands of years for warmth and drying food, fruits, and grains. Over time, people developed technologies to collect and convert solar energy into heat and electricity. Radiant energy from the sun has powered life on Earth for millions of years.
Early solar energy collection devices, such as the solar oven, were used by British astronomer John Herschel in the 1830s to cook food during an expedition to Africa. Today, various technologies are used to collect and convert solar radiation into heat energy for various uses.
How does solar power work for dummies?
PV (photovoltaic) and CSP (concentrating solar-thermal power) systems are two types of solar energy technology used in large power plants. PV uses sunlight to absorb energy from the sun, creating electrical charges that flow in response to an internal electrical field. CSP uses mirrors to concentrate sunlight onto receivers, converting it into heat for electricity production or storage. However, solar energy technology extends beyond PV and CSP systems, requiring integration into homes, businesses, and existing electrical grids with varying combinations of traditional and renewable energy sources.
Is it worth buying a portable solar generator?
Solar generators are portable, clean, and convenient backup power sources for boating or RV camping trips. They can power key appliances in emergencies, but they come at a high upfront cost and have a limited power supply compared to gas generators. Although they can be recharged using solar panels, the slow charge rate may not be ideal for immediate power needs. Despite their benefits, solar generators may not be ideal for immediate power needs.
Can a solar generator run a house?
Solar generator kits are compact equipment that integrate all the elements of a photovoltaic system in a portable box. They can power lower consumption loads like fans, small refrigerators, and lighting, but higher demand appliances like air conditioning require a home energy storage system. This article will cover the general characteristics of solar generators, their operation, and what to consider when choosing a generator to cover at least basic loads of your house. The components of a solar generator include a solar panel, a solar panel, a solar panel, and a battery.
How does a solar system work step by step?
Solar panels work by converting sunlight into DC electricity, which is then converted into AC electricity by an inverter. This current is fed into a meter and into a home’s consumer unit. The system automatically uses the generated electricity and switches back to the grid as needed. Any electricity not used is exported to the grid for others to use. Solar radiation, also known as daylight, powers solar photovoltaic panels.
However, not all locations receive the same amount or concentration of solar radiation, such as Scotland versus Spain or the UK. The European Commission’s PVGIS software estimates that a 4 kWp system on a south-facing 30 degree pitched roof in John O’Groats and Lands End produces 840 kWh/year.
How to make solar system for students?
Create a cardboard box to represent outer space and gather 9 polystyrene or clay balls to represent the sun and planets. Paint them and hang them in the correct order around the sun. The box should be at least as large as a men’s shoebox, measuring 15″ x 10″ x 5½” (36 x 25 x 13 cm). Cover the inside with black acrylic paint and set it aside on newspaper to dry. The planets in your solar system model will hang down inside the box.
What are 5 facts about solar energy?
Solar energy, discovered 200 years ago, is the cheapest and most efficient renewable energy source. It is produced by converting sunlight into electricity through two main technologies: solar cells and solar panels. Solar panels can last up to 30 years and are abundant on Earth. Despite being the most popular renewable energy source globally, less than 5 percent of electricity comes from solar power. The benefits of solar energy are extensive, and its applications are changing industries like construction. The future of solar power is here.
How do you explain solar power to a child?
Solar cells are capable of converting sunlight into electricity by absorbing it. This process can be conducted in groups to power entire buildings, as well as in products like calculators and watches. Despite the relatively low output of these smaller systems, they can still contribute to the generation of electricity.
How long will a solar generator run a refrigerator?
A solar generator can power a refrigerator for hours, with the Jackery Solar Power 1500 and 2000 Pro being the best options. The 1500 can power a large refrigerator for nearly 3 hours, while the 2000 Pro can power a 520W refrigerator for 3. 3 hours and a mini cooler for 15 hours. These generators are suitable for outdoor activities, camping, and off-grid living. The 1500 can power all devices, while the 2000 Pro is suitable for power outages or off-grid living. It is possible to run a small or large-sized refrigerator on a solar generator, but it is essential to consider factors when choosing a model.
How long do solar generators work?
Solar-powered generators can last 8 to 12 hours on average, depending on their capacity and device load. A 600-watt generator can power small LED lights for over 100 hours, while a full-size refrigerator can only run for less than 12 hours. Other factors affecting the runtime of solar generators include battery capacity, weather conditions, and device load. Solar-powered generators rely on stored energy from solar panels and work best under optimal conditions, so it’s essential to pay attention to these factors when determining the runtime of your generator. A full charge should ensure the generator lasts as long as it should, even on cloudy days.
📹 DIY Off-Grid Solar Generator (rev 1) – Low-Cost Portable Power
Portable Solar Power System Features: • always-available portable AC power • cart makes transport around property convenient …
I got a 1980watt start/running solar gen. My brothers a electrician asked if can this gen run my fridge and freezer at the same time. He said yes and maybe some lighter stuff. Also it has charge through charging meaning you can use it while charging. So set up your panels and use your electric hot plate for cooking when its charging as hot plates take up tons of energy. Charge all your devices during the day while the gens charging. Also grab a car/marine battery and charge that with a trickle charger. Then use a battery inverter/converter to pull power off that battery. It’ll charge/run anything a car battery would run/charge. Just a extra way to store power.
Greetings from the land of ice and snow! 😎☕️🥶 Excellent article as always. Hopefully it will put to rest this topic. 🤔 It truly boggles my mind that people ask questions that the can simply research on their own. Look, I get it that not everyone is analytical in their thought process. Analytical thinking is simple: I start with the end result that I desire and work the problem backwards to figure out and RESEARCH where to begin. Perhaps it is the direction that society as a whole is heading towards. Maybe it is part of the dumbing down of society to conform to the agenda of submission., wanting everything done for them. 🤔
We have used the youtube.com/post/UgkxOTeIs0vv4_9B5hsmnLsk9r930uDQLu_Y for probably 30 hours with our camper and it’s been great! The noise level is really only noticeable when running the AC and other appliances like the microwave, hair dryer, or coffee pot. It’s not huge like other ones and it has wheels so even at 90lbs, I can move it!
I just stumbled onto this. Nice job sir! Once suggestion, from an electrical engineer here: I didn’t get a good look at the cables connecting the battery to the inverter but they look a little small. If you try to use the inverter near its full capacity it will try to pull something like 150 amps from the battery. At that level of current a lot of power will be lost to heat in the battery wires (and the battery won’t like it much either). Also, the voltage at the inverter will drop enough to cause it to quit. Consider scaling back your expectations as to how much power you can draw from your system at once, upgrading the battery<->inverter wiring to something like 2 gauge or larger, or both. Very nice system though.
Suggestion – move the plate with the inverter up towards the handle and add another battery holder – you can double the storage capacity by doing this. Also, USB charger on the power strip is a bad idea – you are converting DC to AC and back to DC. The converters within the power strips tend to have horrible power factor – I strongly suggest to add DC-to-DC converter – like the one you can buy for use in vehicles – and power it directly from the battery. Nice build, btw.
Wow, this is so good! I’m a female with zero electrical know-how but fascinated by solar. I too live in the southwest (Phoenix) and solar seems a no brainer to me…but there are so many different angles. Your presentation not only makes sense but the cost puts it over the top, as superior – thank you! I wonder if I could get someone to make one of these for me!
Suggestions: Use a mppt charge controller for added efficiency and flexibility with solar panels of different voltages. Use a lithium iron phosphate battery. More expensive but lighter, deeper discharge without damage, no maintenance and a much much longer usable lifespan. Also, provide a way to utilise the DC voltage directly without turning on the inverter. No need to turn on the inverter to charge your cell phone. These modifications would probably add another $400 to the build price but it would take this to an entirely different level. Totally worth the additional money. I would suggest using the system I described as a regular power source for a few specific small loads. I use mine to power my cpap machine lights and a small TV in my bedroom. A permanently mounted solar panel and lithium battery means absolutely no maintenance and it is ready to go when the peer fails. Excellent article and a very clean build… your configuration is definitely usable as is. Enjoy.
I like the idea and have built something similar myself, with a few differences, of course. I chose to use a large plastic tool box with wheels and an extendable handle. I also chose to use a pair of 55 amp hour AGM batteries connected in parallel, for a total of 110 amp hours of capacity, or 55 amp hours of usable capacity. The AGM batteries have the advantage of not being spillable. The tool box also allows all of the components to be enclosed, except the inverter which is mounted to the side. I chose to go with a 20 amp MPPT solar charge controller that flush mounts on the opposite side of the inverter and the connections are available inside the box. So, I made a pair of solar input terminals out of some 1/4 inch nuts, bolts, lock washers, and washers that I painted red and black. The panels connect to those. And, I put a 12vdc socket, a pair of Anderson Power Pole connectors, a pair of 5 way binding posts, a pair of high current output terminals like the solar panel input terminals, and a volt meter on the front where the handle extends. It proved useful for several years, until the AGM batteries went flat and I just haven’t replaced them – because, I built a new battery box featuring a Lithium Iron Phosphate battery pack made up of 128 26650 LiFePO4 cells that are each 3.2vdc at 3300mAH in a 4S32P arrangement, producing 105.6 amp hours capacity at 12.8 volts. This pack can be discharged 80% rather than just 50% and will provide 2000-3000 cycles and could last 20 to 30 years.
Nice job. I made one myself out of a tool box that I attach Wheels to with handles and I put two batteries inside the toolbox with the inverter of the solar charge controller and I bolted 100 watt panel on top of the lid of the toolbox it works great I get a lot of comments and compliments when we go camping
I’m building my own also and I too thought a bought the HB hand truck. I believe I am going to get a spill proof battery like an AGM. The AGM will not gas off while charging or discharging like the marine battery will. I also will be able to hook it with jumper cables to a marine type battery if I wish to. I am going to use a MPPT controller and I bought the EPEVER Tracer series 40 amp and bought the MT 50 remote meter. I have bought a Windy Nation 100 watt flexible panel to cut down on the weight; I also plan on buying another 100 watt panel like the one I just bought from Windy Nation. I bought a Optima 12 volt battery charger 2 years ago and am totally impressed with it’s abilities. One last note is; be sure and fuse your solar panels and fuse your output to your battery off the controller. Nice article.
Wow.. I just came here because it looked interesting. Most of the time people say “affordable”, but it’s still more than i’m willing to spend. But this is actually fantastic. Plus, it can be a modular design. Allowing for incremental upgrades while keeping costs low. for example swapping out the battery for something other than lead acid.
Real nice setup for much cheaper than others, great job! Only thing that didn’t make sense was 6 hours on a box fan but 12 on an LED TV which uses much more power than a fan, that doesn’t make sense. Trying to calculate my ductless mini split running all night to sleep cool while batteries are charged during the day. Living in the sunshine state I figured might as well take advantage.
Desert Prep, more power to you. Pls make more articles like this one because it is not only so educational it is also super fun to watch and you nailed it brother, if all the youtube articles are like this one, we will be building a lot solar panels system all over the world and get rid of old, inefficient form of power generation that is not only dirty but expensive, thank you.
Hello, I like you’re presentation of the solar power set up you combined ! I’ve been watch a ton of articles and links how to create Ac power about 115v @ 90 Amp’s is what I’ve seen on YouTube I just got an Alternator in the mail what they say is a GM Alternator 1 Wire self exciting tapped off the ” Stator which is the copper wire that is under the casing, what they say is once you remove the back plastic cover than split the Alternator in half by removing the 4 bolts which hold the 2 cases together, when you put the alternator on the bench on its Pulley looking down you’ll see the 4 bolts holding it together, when you separate them on the back you’ll have 3 leads 2 wires each 1 in the middle like on the top of the alternator if it was sideways and 1 wire a few inches on each side 1 to the left & 1 to the right which is suppose to when spinning each 1 is supposed to be putting out 115v Ac that’s 3x 115v Ac and at what Amps ? I have not personally tested this out yet and to have small electrical motor low power draw and low Amps spin the Alternator when the AGM or lithium batteries drop bellow 12v and the inverter goes to the batteries similar to the way you have it set with the power cord but also wired to you’re home fuse box, the batteries keep the Alternator \\ Alternator’s running to charge the batteries and a hard wire goes also straight to you’re fuse box when the draw is heavy the alternator can be feeding you’re house straight to 1-100 Amp Split Fuse which will feed both sides of you’re fuse box and you are ” Self Contained ” and to throw a little bit more onto that I’ve seen if you take apart the microwave there is a voltage transmitter which contains and multiplies your 120 voltage fed in from the wall it multiplies it by 10 to 15 times to give you the 1500 W to 2000 W microwave But these save power so they’re very hot and can kill you even if unplugged I saw that article on the person one you highly be very careful what you put 120 in and you get like 1,500 out !
Excellent presentation. I would say if this fits your needs then fantastic. You have the ability to add or subtract whatever you like. I have a large unit myself for more of a bugout application. As someone mentioned …. Battery types. Adding a battery is always an option which is a great idea. You may want a bigger inverter. I would say it’s all personal choices. If you go larger on solar panels then you may consider an MPPT controller. That would always maximize your solar battery input. Yes sir… a fine job and thank you.
Great set up. I love it! The only thing that I would do different is use a sealed AGM battery or a gel battery. They are significantly more expensive than the flooded battery you used but I think in the long run would be worth the investment due to the maintenance free nature of sealed batteries. As well, sealed batteries do not gas so they do not need to be vented, and because they are not flooded with liquid acid, they can be installed on their side, making it easy to stack a second battery on your cart, doubling your amp hours without taking up any more room in your footprint. Anyway, just my thoughts. Thanks for sharing this article!
I think that this is a good job for what it is. I would be happy to build something like that. The only thing I might add is a little bit better voltage meter for the battery so as to better assess the charge level. And using the 12v battery will let you not only add one of your vehicle batteries for extra capacity but also let you charge it from that vehicle.
Wow, your solar generator set up is almost identical to mine except I am using a slightly smaller 1.5KW inverter. I especially like the way you set up the hand truck to make the whole package portable. My portable solar power system isn’t as portable as yours so I will be borrowing your hand truck idea to make some improvements. Thanks for sharing.
Great article and almost exactly what I’m looking for. I intend to make one of these to take my refrigerator off the grid to pay for it. I intend to use a shorter cart with harbor freight wheels. The missing link for me was the solar charger kit. I need a generator like once every other year so taking my fridge off grid is the immediate goal. The fridge, lights and TV. Oughta save a few hundred bucks a year.
Nice article, good job. I built mine with $1700 capital for a 3 pcs 150W solar panel, pwm charger regulator 2000w inverter and 6, 100A deep cycle solar batteries, I did all connections and DIY all fabrications. still working after 3 years, I actually think I have ROIed my batteries already from my electric bill savings.
I’ve struggled with this very subject and just recently, very recently, pretty much settled on the AR-15 with 16″ bbl but….I have a CMMG .22 Cal LR conversion kit on order so in addition to a couple hundred rounds of 5.56 ammo I figure I can easily haul maybe 1,000 rounds of .22LR. In effect one rifle but capable of two popular cartridges that I can interchange depending on circumstances. For my pistol, I already have a Ruger Mk-IV, a Sig226 and a Taurus Model 92-AF to choose from but that’s another series of choices; with more plus and minuses!
If you use an SLA battery it can be used and stored in any position. An AGM type is even better. They all have their price points. I would build this on a garden wagon the kind with pneumatic tires and a mesh bottom. Less issues with tipping since it’s always in the horizontal position. A cover of some sort over the top can keep it weather protected. Another refinement would be to add a gas engine running a car alternator. Yeah, I know it’s back to gas again, but it can be nice to have the option at times.
I appreciate you offering the idea. The idea of fixing the panels to the cart in some way is one of the most popular. (I‘d considered it in the beginning, but discarded the idea because of practical realities that preclude it). First, the hand truck is quite heavy with two batteries, particularly if using AGM batteries (weighing in at 135 lb / 61kg for just the two batteries) — fixing the panels to the truck will add both weight and bulk, making it too unwieldy to be practical. Second, the tilt and direction of the panels has quite an effect on the solar energy gathered — fixing the panels to the truck with hinges will make it difficult to optimize this in any way. Third, I found nowhere on the property that I could get all-day sun at ground level — it was necessary to put the panels up high and there’s no way the truck is going to get to where the panels need to be. The final solution for me was to mount the panels in simple frames on the shade structure above the BBQ in a semi-permanent way, and run wire with a disconnect reaching a protected area under our covered patio where the generator is sheltered from rain. When the generator is needed, I can roll it out of the garage and plug in the panels. For my concept of a portable emergency solar power generator, this seems like an ideal solution. A of course, “your mileage may vary…”
Thanks for sharing this article. I’m wondering why you didn’t choose lithium iron phosphate cells instead of the deep cycle? The cost over the lifetime 500 cycles and 50% useable watt hours for the batteries in your system, versus 2000 cycles, 80_90% useable watt hours of a LiFePO4 generator, it seems the marine batteries are cheaper at the register, but more expensive in the long run. Anyway I’m just wondering why you chose these particular marine deep cycles. I love the cart system. Moving it around the property is like that is pretty awesome. 👍
Fantastic. It’s nice to see somebody who’s actually built something, with the humility to accept there may be improvements on the design. Your unit should be able to do the job intended and power a lot of devices in most cases. I could only suggest using an AGM battery (as a few others have). They’re getting cheaper all the time now. I love the design, it’s well thought out and very practical. I might make something similar for emergency power, and camping. Cheers from Australia.
The last week I’ve been looking at putting solar power in my van perusal a lot of article and learning the math that computes what I need if I want to run something for a certain a mount of time. I’m far from an expert but better batteries would be my first change. Optima’s don’t require checking the water and they can be mounted at any angle. They are not cheap, about $270 each, but I don’t want to deal with water. On your set up I would weld a second battery holder and wire the batteries together You’re current set up will take a little over 7 hours to recharge your battery via solar once it has been used to operating capacity.
You have done a nice job of building a portable and highly functional solar power system. It is actually inaccurate to call it a “solar generator” though since a generator is a machine that converts mechanical energy into electrical energy. But… I know that is sort of the standard terminology even though it is sort of like taking a bicycle and calling it a semi truck. (They must be the same thing. Look, they both have wheels.) LOL. Now, at the end of the article, you asked for viewers ideas on what you might have done differently. Here are my thoughts. There is always a tradeoff between portability and capacity. That said, If you had turned that group 27 battery 90 degrees, you could put a second one beside it on the platform. While this would add weight, you would double the amount of energy that you can store and use. Your solar PV panels at 100 watts each, if connected in parallel, should output about 11 amps in full sun. With 5 sun hours (not to be confused with daylight hours) a day average and assuming that you started with a full battery bank, your 200 watts of panels should easily keep your batteries full and ready to be used. (In the southwest you’ll probably get more sun hours.) Remember: Batteries are the heart of any solar system. it is the batteries more than any other component that determine a solar system’s versatility and usefulness. In the event that a hunker down situation turned into a bug-out situation, you would have the option to simply leave one of the batteries behind if you needed to do so because of weight or for other reasons and you’d still have a functional system.
Hey there! TY for the article. We’re going to build this. I have looked at generators. The issue I have is cost and then the second one is if we have a serious situation what if our one generator fails for some reason. Can’t replace it right away? This I can piece together and the components are self explanatory so I can theoretically keep it going and it is not too heavy to move. Real world generator IMO. Thanks!
I AM WATTS AND REAL ENJOYED YOUR MAKING THIS.WHY,WELL IN A FULLTIME RV,ER AND HAVE OWNED THREE HOMES,TRIED OF THE UPKEEP,I BOUGHT A THREE DIFFERENT RVS.THEY COME WITH INHERENT PROBLEMS,THE REFRIGERATORS ARE AMMONIA THE ROADS BEING PARKED ARE NOT LEVEL FOR RAIN RUN OFF.THE AMMONIA. IS ACID A EATS THREW THE TUBE,THERE 1300.00 BUCKS.THAT PLUS SEV. FEES ABOUT 200.00.FOR ABOUT 800.00 I CAN BUILD A REF.FROM WALMART THAT WILL NEVER FAIL.
I like your presentation. You are going a similar direction I did a few years ago. But I learned quickly that a system like this really can’t do a very good job in real world use. I even used two Group 27 Marine type batteries. It could only run my oxygen concentrator for 4 hours running below the 50% DOD. My system was cheap only cost about $600 with a 225W solar panel, but that doesn’t mean much if it can’t power your critical long term load needs. I should point out that your battery doesn’t contain 1750 Watts of energy. Your inverter can power a load at 1750 Watts, but your battery only has 1140 Watt Hours of energy 95Ah X 12V = 1140Wh. So less than 600Wh at 50% DOD Note it’s Watt Hour, not Watts. Watts is only the instant power, Wh is energy over time same as Ah. My refrigerator/freezer uses about 1500Wh of energy a day. Lead acid batteries can only cycle about 300 times at 50% DOD. But my LiFePo4 batteries in my current system can cycle close to 3,500 times at 80% DOD. Which makes them much less expensive in the long run. Review my YouTube article to see the many more reasons why this type of system isn’t very good for critical long term load needs. youtu.be/HT6LXzdeGjc
Nice job – very practical and cost effective. Dont believe that charge life crap about lead acids — they have a set life span regardless of the amount of charge you take from them at one cycle. If you discharge it 80% you will get the same amount of “energy” over its life as if you were discharging it for 20%. Calcification happens at the same rate no matter how much you discharge it. If you do massive discharges and cause heat damage thats another thing. I think this whole 50% discharge life thing started as a selling gimmick when people complained about battery life – “well only discharge it 50% and it will last twice as long” and nobody did the math on the energy out put! For folks wanting a unit that will get allot more charge and discharge cycles – invest the extra $’s on lithium based batteries — for higher cycles you will get more for your money long run. Looking forward to more of your vids — Cheers, Patrick
Nice design. I like the way you got it all together on that hand cart – very clean build. But… I built something similar and so let me pass along some bad news: You cannot look at the amp hour ratings on a battery and assume you will get those amp hours regardless of the rate of discharge. Basically, as you pull harder on a lead acid battery it becomes substantially less efficient, and those ratings on the battery are all calculated at low loads. Yes, you can pull 1,500 watts if you had to, but your run time is going to be awful, and you’ll eventually shorten the life of the battery if you pull on it that hard regularly. I have a system that has two similar deep cycle batteries, so roughly twice your capacity, and I put a 400 watt inverter on it. Now I have less flexibility in what I can run, but 3-400 watts is probably about as much as you want to pull out of something like this. You really need a lot more battery capacity for an inverter that big. You are future-proofed for adding more batteries and solar capacity, but that inverter is just too big for your current storage capacity.
Three years later, my first view, I’d say your article held up well over time! I LOVE how you mounted these on a hand truck! Since it is, however, 3 years later, would you modify/change any of the components or have you seen specific price breaks on any of the components, or better ones? THANK YOU so much! @DesertPrep
1 1/2 year ago I made a similar set up, but with only Harbor Freight equipment, except for the dolly I had and the electrical strip, is a 45 watt solar cell set up and a 2000 watt power inverter, not much but works perfectly for what I need when I go to my little plot of land in the Samalayuca Desert, I got an extra car eq. and amp. to plug in my mp3 player, and as long as we have sun light, I can use tools, hear music, and have lighting for the night, simple, not that eficient, but works fine with me. So cool what you did :), and pardon my english, don’t know if I wrote something wrong, it’s been a long time since I wrote that much in english LOL JA!JA!JA!.. SALUDOS from Juárez Mex. 🙂
Excellent! Just the kind of system I’ve been thinking about. Not to live “off grid”, but a simple system to use in an emergency, something that will provide some electrical convenience for up to a few weeks if needed. And a system that is fairly inexpensive and easy to move around, if needed. I might think about a sealed batter so I don’t get a buildup of hydrogen gas while charging. Wish Lithium batteries would come down in price, they’re still too expensive in 2020! Thanks!
Maybe mount everything on a small trailer and make the solar panels able to tilt. Would allow you to carry more batteries too. One 100 ah battery for everything 100 watts of solar capacity. Would also use AGM batteries. Should be able to run a small refrigerator, fans, and lights indefinitely. Good overall idea.
Very nice 👌I want to copy this, maybe build 2 battery shelves stacked, the second slighly oversized to accommodate unknown battery footprints, could be used for storage now, maybe find a perfect removable storage box, if a second battery is in need like you stated you have a place for it. Your design and build is perfect however as is.
Doesn’t the Yeti have a lithium battery? Ok this article is a little old, but lithium batteries can be discharged almost down to zero, not only to 50%. They’re also more efficient, longer living, which is what makes lithium currently less expensive, watt-for-watt, than led acid. The upfront cost is more though. Will Prowse explains this in his solar diy articles.
Desert Prep..thank you for genuise indeas here..plus, bought me 24v 48ah battery from Battery hook up only fir $ 325/ plus 61 dollar all total is $413.00 and got my two charge control and BMS with bluetooth only for $7.55 on huge sale and already have used hand truck on my property..here..just now need some two 250 watts solar panel getting for huge discount..next month..again for the great ideas and use it for propety business too..by Chief Spirit of Shawnee, Cherokee and Choctaw Indians Nation
1. Attach the panels to the sides of the cart with hinges so they unfold (so you wouldn’t have to carry them)2. Put a (adjustable) leg on the back of the (center of) the cart, hinged at the top.THEN, you can wheel the cart out, tilt to the proper angle to maximize collection and unfold the wing panels. Tada 😀🌞
Great article. good description of your needs and sizing of the unit. I’ve done the same thing to insure that we can power electronics and my CPAP, but mine’s not portable. we lose power here due to ice storms every other year or so. We also have gas generator power as well. I like the hand truck idea. I think there’s some welding in my future.
Well done first off, butt the thing I would change is use 2X 12V AGM 300amp or there about, batteries and setup as a 24VDC and that would run way better than a 12VDC system, raze the back board to allow for the two batteries and use a heaver gauge cable from batteries to inverter, and I would use a MPPT charge controller, with two 300 watt solar panels to allow for charging the batteries as well as running small AC devices, over all your system is a grate Idea for camping or when the grid goes down for a short time. keep up the good work, two thumbs up
Think I will do this with 6 panels and 2 batteries and place it in and on my shed and have heavy duty extension cords run under ground and into the house. Plug one of the cords in to a power strip for every day use to cut back on the electric bill and see how that works. I’m retired and the TV runs all day..LOL.
Very nice. I too was interested in buying a solar generator until I found the prices then…..needless to say no thanks. I had thought and still debate on building a similar type and realized it could be done for a fraction of the cost.thank you for the knowledge. As far as the looks of yours I think it’s just fine,remember looks don’t get you paid either way
I like what you did. I would recommended someone to first do a study of critical appliances and the four seasons to determine what an ideally sized system should be. During an emergency, cooking and heating is better done with propane or natural gas. My house has natural gas heating, so during the winter, keeping the furnace going would be very important.(~800W). Also, Refrigs and deep freezes would be great. Nothing like keeping your food safe. Some non critical appliances are TV, internet connection devices, computer, phones and some lights. Maybe, the system could be used to offset your power bill. Think of stepping the design up a notch and actually getting to a break even point in 10-12 years off setting some of your power bill and maintaining your emergency system to boot.
I’ve been looking for a charging solution for 2 Baofeng hand held radios, cordless 12 volt power tools and a charger for ion AA and AAA batteries. I’ve had an Onan 4k genny in an rv and a portable 2k both worked good but there is the issue of fuel, and it seems like overkill just to charge things. I really like this version of solar generator. Enough wattage for what I need, portable and most importantly, reasonablely priced. I was looking at the Jackery 1000 watt and their solar panels and found the ion battery begins losing capacity after 2 to 3 years. That is not acceptable to me. I’m going to get the parts for your design with the exception of using a AGM deep cycle battery.
This is excellent now I have a Chevy volt and I use my Nexus ego power station to charge it up a bit any idea if your system is capable of doing so? Now the ego Max his power station I’ll put a pure sine wave so my thought was that I would charge that unit with the unit that you have made and see how much charge I can get in my car and it’s main purpose would actually be to power my overland camper
Check out the Builders Guide article with wiring diagram and downloadable design worksheet that does all the engineering math for you. With the worksheet, you can play “what if?” with different batteries, controllers and panels to map out your own perfect generator or evaluate upgrades to your system. youtu.be/6glK8-IcDgE
Hi, looks like the best undeniably. Is there a way to brace two more batteries anchored onto the bottom behind the original front side battery? Fastened opposite of your panel’s attachments?Of course it would be heavy as hell, but, knowing to unload your fantastic product off of a van with no ramp, one would knowingly find it necessary to remove any battery (very easy), Anyway, with 4 solar pannels and 2 added batteries in the bottom back side, which incidentally balances out the weight, would it all be possible? Maybe fatter tires, good bearings ? Reason is is that I’m an a/c fan. Keeps my linnens, fresh…..Thanks, let me know if you can. Thank you. Very nice.👌
Dessert Prep please can I use normal car batteries of 100 or 200 Ahms to power my solar panels and what level of efficiency do I expect for power storage? How many of these batteries, panels and size of inverter do I need to power my chest freezer for six hours with other light household appliances like LED TV, ceiling fan, and 8light points of 20watts each in an off and on grid power supply?
This is very impressive, especially with the reduced price, compared to other equipment. But, when it comes down to the final wire this is nothing more than a mobile version of the solar system one has on their roof. If the sun doesn’t maintain what you need you’re dead in the water. As a ‘generator’ it’ll work fine as long as there is sunlight, but, gasoline/diesel generators, though noisy, will get the job done ‘rain or shine’ .
1st let me say great article buddy, I have been thinking about doing something similar 4 a while now… I think if u mount 1 panel on the front, use a hinge by the battery so it can stay vertical when not in use, and tilt back when in use. (So not to take up too much space when stored) Then using hinges on the side of the 1st panel add a panel either side so u have 3 in total, folding back to each side (that way u could always add more in a concertina style as needed) The fold out panels will need a fold-away “leg” to prop them up. Don’t 4get a bungee cord 2 hold everything in place during storage & to hold the middle panel 2 the hand cart when angled.! There r a few other changes I would advise u 2 make… The battery – change 2 lithium asap. (4 ideas check out Jehugarcia, he has links 2 great deals on cells or any of the other ppl doing DIY powerwall type projects) (U won’t need the auxiliary battery charger that way as Lithium holds its charge unlike Lead) Charge control – switch to an MPPT if u can afford to as they r much better. USB – get some 12v to USB converters run them via individual switches straight from the battery. …But other than that, it’s a great starting point, & something every1 can afford & do. Much respect from the UK.
Is there any issue having it plugged into the 120 maintainer while using the inverter ( but of course why would we do this if grid power was available…) I am of course thinking of trying to have a system that can take both grid and solar and switch back and forth…so this is why I ask, does that maintainer back feed the pannels?
I really like this system! Do you think adding a 2nd battery on that same cart would be simple to accomplish? I would imagine it takes up the remaining space on top of the truck, just curious if it would make hard to move around. I like how much cheaper it is! I’ve been thinking about getting the Ice chest looking system where the panels slide out from inside the unit. But your build is soooo much cheaper!!
Love this so much that I went out and bought all the items I needed to assemble this. The only thing I did different was get a Thunderbolt 500 watt charge controller. I have everything set up and attached to the hand truck like your picture. The problem…I am a 63 year old female, no “cables” came with anything and I am lost as how where do I get these cables or wires to hook all this up tp get it running and what are they called? Also I have no clue how to connect an inline 30A fuse . Other than that I have a pretty good handle on this. HELP!
I have a system that is one 12 volt battery and one hundred watt panel. And voltage regulator. Enough for lights and keeping my tablet and phone charged. During the day I can listen to amplified music. None of the systems shown here will power anything 110v for very long. I have no inverter. They are very inefficient. They gobble a lot of the juice! This is a very small home in the Peruvian Andes. It can get cold at night. Plenty of blankets!
If anyone reads this who has ANY KNOWLEDGE OR EXPERIENCE WITH SOLAR,PLEASE HELP. Ive never owned any type of solar system and was about to buy my 1st solar generator the bluetti ac200 max and came across this. I know the ac200 is very compact and plug and play but I feel for the 2000 dollars I can buy a all in one solar inverter and battery for the same price but would get more wattage output, higher solar input, higher/faster ac input/charging,and as times goes on just add parallel batteries for more watt hours. Can anyone give me there opinion on witch way I should go. Or suggestions for a solar generator system for around the 2000 dollar mark… THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR ANY HELP YOU CAN PROVIDE!!!
Can you do a article of what it takes to maintain a normal 1 person cabin, that has a regular run of the mill 60 in. Flat screen TV. & A Play station gaming system, or a DVD system, a central air unite that accommodates a 1000 SQ. Foot house, a normal size refrigerator and normal size washer and dryer a normal size to toaster, & 60 watt bulbs as needed 1 per each room, running 1 at a time, sorry if this is a stupid question, but I’m just trying to see if anyone is capable of doing this, at a inexpensive price
I forgot to mention that I am not running an inverter. I bought a 12 volt plug for my CPAP and run that with the humidifier off. Inverters cost lost amp Hrs. 12 volts to run my CB, 12 Volts to charge batteries for an emergency radio. If the power grid goes down there will be no phones including cell phones. The government might broadcast on CB or HAM or an emergency broadcast on the over the air TV.
I don’t think you are supposed to chain together batteries with differing ratings or types. Instead, you might want to consider some kind of battery quick connect/disconnect. That way you could use your cart battery until it gets low and then easily disconnect it and connect to whatever other battery you have available. I’m no expert on any of this though. Btw, I did a quick search and found the below. I have no clue if that would work or not. However, it should give you a good idea of what I’m thinking. mygreenoutdoors.com/motorguide-quick-disconnect-battery-terminals-1/?gclid=CjwKCAiAqbvTBRAPEiwANEkyCAJnvDJRWAHwo0Do5w6-GHlmz_WrXh2UAyWD5_N21JFnDBB1AVKiyRoCb9EQAvD_BwE
Nice stuff. I am going to assume you are using a PWM charge controller. It will prevent excess voltage from being converted to a higher amperage at the same voltage for the battery – as would be the case with an MPPT charge controller (PWMs just stop the circuit, wasting the extra power). So you would gain more battery charging capabilites (at least 30% more) with the MPPT, and with your setup, you could get an MPPT charge controller for about $125 US. The extra money you’d spend on the charge controller could be offset by getting a MSW Inverter from china (see ebay for a reputable seller) about about $125 US shipped (i have this one, it works great and has great peak/surge abilityat twice the watts tinyurl.com/ydfdtu6d). Lots of choices and a better power generating system overall.