For different weight denim, use a size 9 or 10 needle for lightweight denim (6-8 oz), a size 12 or 14 needle for medium weight denim (8-12 oz), and a size 16 or 18 needle for heavyweight denim (12 oz and above). When working with stretch denim, use a needle specifically designed for stretch fabrics. A universal 100/16 or 110/18 sewing machine needle is suitable for most denim types, but the best needle size for denim is a jeans/denim needle-sized 90/14.
A heavy-duty needle is essential for sewing denim or other thick fabrics, and a size 16 or 18 needle is recommended. These needles have a sharp point and a stronger shaft to penetrate the thick layers of denim without breaking. If you don’t want to buy specialty needles, you can use a size 90/14 universal needle (100/16 for thicker denim).
Some lightweight and medium-weight needles can be cut on the fold using sharp shears or a new rotary cutter, while heavier fabrics require a larger needle size. A 14/90 Microtex needle often sews better than any of the others, but ballpoint needles are too convex for many closely woven denims.
A new denim needle, either size 90 or size 100, is vital for sewing thicker denim material. Jeans needles penetrate thick woven fabrics, denims, and quilts with minimal deflection, reduced risk of needle breakage, and fewer skipped stitches. To achieve professional results, use a size 16 jeans needle, which is sharper than a universal needle. Organ Needles Jeans needles have a slim point, making them great for sewing difficult materials like denim, canvas, or faux leather.
📹 Denim Sewing Machine Needle – Quick Information
There are a large number of sewing machine needles for a variety of purposes, here is a quick bit about Jeans or Denim Needles.
What is the difference between sewing needle 90 14 and 80 12?
Needle size is a crucial factor in sewing, as heavier fabrics require larger needles. There are two different sizes on packs of needles: European and American. A medium-weight needle is typically 90/14, while lighter fabrics like sheer cotton require smaller needles like 80/12 or 75/11. Heavy fabrics like denim require larger needles like 100/16 or 110/18. To ensure proper needle size, experiment with different needles on swatches and check for crunching noises when sewing.
If the needle struggles to get through the fabric, it might need a sharper point, a bigger eye, or a fresh needle. By understanding the subtle differences between needle types and sizes, you can determine which one is best for the fabric you’re sewing.
What setting should I use for denim?
To maintain the quality of denim jeans, follow these steps:
Choose a Delicate or Gentle cycle for washing denim jeans. Use cold water and mild detergent, especially for dark colors like blue or black. Wash jeans inside out and by themselves to protect the fibers on the outside from friction and detergent exposure. If washing with other clothes, try with similarly colored jeans or clothing.
Hang jeans up to air dry or use a no heat cycle. Direct heat exposure in the dryer can shrink, fade, or yellow denim, and damage stretch denim fabrics containing spandex or Lycra. If using a dryer, select a low or no heat cycle and use dryer balls to keep the jeans tumbling. The best way to dry jeans is by hanging them up to air dry.
Can you sew denim with a regular needle?
In order to sew denim and thicker fabrics, it is recommended to use a needle specifically designed for denim, with a size 90/14 for standard needles and 100/16 for thicker denim. In the case of chambray or Tencel denim, an 80/12 universal needle is recommended.
What needle is best for sewing denim?
It is recommended that a 90/14 needle be used for light- and medium-weight denim, and a 100/16 for heavy-weight denim. It is recommended that heavy-duty closures, such as tack buttons or snaps, be installed in order to achieve a professional finish. It is recommended that bulky seams and hems be hammered with a mallet prior to stitching.
Do I need a special thread to sew denim?
To sew with denim, use all-purpose thread in your bobbin and use a 90/14 needle for lightweight and medium-weight denim and a 100/16 for heavyweight denim. Hold denim taut to prevent skipped stitches. Denim is a staple fabric in most closets and fabric stashes, available in various weights, washes, and colors. Sewing with denim is just as fun as wearing it, and it comes in a wide variety of colors and weights.
What stitch is best for denim?
Chain Link Stitch is a strong stitch used for creating a roping effect on denim jeans and is commonly found on jeans. It is also used for decoration and embroidery, as it is easy to create curved lines and customize designs. Chain Link Stitch has been used for thousands of years to add embroidered designs to fabric.
Bar Tack Stitch is used for areas with high stress zones, such as pockets, belt loops, and buttonholes, and fabric bags. It is strong and can be applied by hand or machine, and can be doubled up with a back stitch for extra support. Both chain link and bar tack stitches have their uses and applications in various industries.
Can a home sewing machine sew denim?
When sewing with denim, it is crucial to understand your sewing machine and the different materials it is made of. It may be slow, but the right needle and accessories can make the process smoother. For DIYers who want to sew multiple layers of denim at once, a commercial and industrial grade sewing machine is recommended. These machines are designed for sewing heavy threads used for top-stitching layers of denim. However, you can use a regular home sewing machine with a heavy thread by sewing the heavy thread in the bobbin and using a regular size thread in the top needle.
Hyde Park Denim, a denim supplier with years of experience, offers affordable and durable denim material at wholesale prices. They also offer pocketing fabric, perfect for small and large jean manufacturers. These tips aim to help DIYers improve their home sewing experience with denim. Shop their denim fabrics today for durable material for the pockets of your jeans.
What does a denim sewing machine needle look like?
The SCHMETZ Jeans needle, also referred to as a denim needle, is distinguished by a modified medium ballpoint and a reinforced blade, which together exemplify an exclusive SCHMETZ point design.
Is denim difficult to sew?
Jeans are made with a flat fell seam, which is strong and hardwearing. However, it is difficult to achieve with denim and a domestic sewing machine. To create a regular seam, press it to one side and finish with a double row of top stitching. To start, fold a small piece of denim into a rectangle and wedge it under the presser foot at the beginning and end of seams. Gently walk the needle over thick seams by hand.
What tension should I use for denim?
The author shares tips for sewing denim, specifically using a straight-stitch length between 3. 0 mm and 4. 0 mm and increasing machine tension to 4. 6. They have recently started sewing a pair of Cashmerette Ames jeans using Repreve Stretch Denim in White, and are excited to share more tips for sewing with beefy fabrics like denim. The author will be sharing these tips on Facebook Live every Wednesday at 3:00 pm Mountain Time.
Most sewing machines are strong enough to sew through denim with the correct needle, stitch-length, and tension. However, small, entry-level machines may not be able to power through denim, but the tips provided in this blog post will help prepare for the journey.
What is a 90-14 needle used for?
These needles are designed for the purpose of stitching smooth, finely woven fabrics such as silk, chintz, lightweight faux suede, and microfiber. They feature a narrow shaft and a sharp point, which allows for optimal thread piercing.
📹 What size sewing machine needle do you use for what fabric??? Learn how to figure it out!
So confused about what sewing machine needle to use?? Let me talk you through the 4 main types of sewing machine needles, …
I always test the current needle in my machine, on a scrap of fabric from the project. If it sews as good as it usually does – my laziness says, just use that one. But if the fabric snags I might use a smaller needle unless it’s a knit and I would use a ballpoint. A smaller (thin) needle breaks more easily and a larger needle can leave holes or struggle to sew with that awful knock/bang sound as it pierces the fabric. Love all your articles.
Almost excellent. I got excited when you held up the Schmetz that had 130/705H 15xH and wanted to know what it meant. I googled it and found that it means (from the Schmetz web site) 130/705 refers to a needle with a flat shank, which, as you say in the article is the Universal. Thank you for the article – off to watch more of yours!
After years and years of not sewing, I have bought a fairly simple sewing machine to make a few fun projects for my grandchildren. I have watched a series of your articles and they are so helpful. Thank you for sharing your knowledge! I wish I would have had this information 20-30 years ago. My husband used to say I turned into a completely different person while sewing. All this time I thought it was me being incapable. I had no idea everyone had these issues and there are pathways to resolve each one. I am so excited to look at each “issue” as an opportunity to learn now.
I’ve been going through your articles, and this one is so helpful! I’ve been wondering what the difference between Stretch and Jersey was. The fabric store I shop at has a sign by the sharps to use them on microfiber, and I found out by experimenting that they work for silk, too, so glad to know I was right.
I would love to see you do a article on different thread sizes for different needle sizes. As a beginner, I was having issues with thread jams, needle deflection, and ruined hooks in my machine, because I wasnt matching the needle to the fabric. But I still had issues after figuring out the right needle, because I wasnt matching the thread size to the needle as well. I sew saddle pads for horses. Very heavy fabrics with thick seams. Now I only use the heavy nylon upholstery thread with size 18 needles. The size 16 needles are too small for the heavy thread I need. Using 16s causes thread fray, thread breakage, needle deflection, and bird nests. Of course that also damaged my hooks.
I’m so glad I found you. I don’t know how to sew and you’ve really cleared up a lot of things for me. My mending project (which is why I bought a machine in the first place) turned around from a 4 day ongoing failure to a 10 minute success from a previous article I watched. Since perusal some of your older articles, I have gained so much knowledge. I think I may even take this up as a hobby.
Thank you, finally someone that actually answered my question! This is the sixth article I looked at, and the only one that I listened to till the end. I’ve been sewing for over 30 years, but I’m just trying my hand at quilting and just needed to know when to use which needle as I’ve never worked with wadding before; it’s funny how none of the quilting articles discussed the needles. You didn’t focus on quilting, but you mentioned the type and size of needle I need to buy and that is all I wanted. You were very helpful, thank you very much.
Evelyn, great information. It was not until I began sewing on polyester and was getting skipped stitches no matter what I did. I took my fabric to fabric store and asked what was I doing wrong? lady at store said oh honey, you need to use a ball point needle on polyester. Well that pushed me into another realm of sewing, and needle selection became crucial. That was many many moons ago! There are just so many very simply things a seamstress needs to know. Picking thread, same thing! I have one sewing machine, a Juki Tl98, does only a straight stitch, but wow it is so picky about threads, first I must use same thread in bobbin as on top. And the sewing machine has a mind of its own, it only likes the most expensive thread, yeah really, likes the aurofil brand, go figure!
I know 2 seamstresses that say to use a universal size 14 for light to mid weight blouse or shirting cottons. I do different seams depending on the garment. I’ve found a size 12 to struggle over the layers of cotton on the seams. I used a regular size 14 needle to make a toiletry bag with 2 layers of cotton and 2 layers of fusible fleece and a zipper, and had many skipped stitches, I switched to a 16 and it was a lot easier, and no missed stitches. I guess it also depends on the machine. The issues previously mentioned were done on a singer talent, a basic sewing machine. I now have a mid range Janome but haven’t sewn multiple layers with it yet, I bet it handles those layers better with a size 14 needle. I also heard that a denim needle is better for making bags etc. so I will use a denim needle from now on.
Thanks Evelyn, yes I have found that industrial machines take a different type of needle shaft, not the flat on one side. I ordered some which do not fit my old Singer. They might fit the SAILRITE that I intend on purchasing in the future. I sew heavier fabric, leathers, motorcycle patches. I eventually will be making some drapes with blackout liners for my home with sheers as an accent. Have you much experience in that application ? J K
I have a big problem breaking my needle when i use 14/90. I thought it was good enough. But, when i go over some really thick batting. My needle breaks. You would not believe how many needles i go through?? .. wow!! .. I need help.. lol.. I have been making cozy bowls & the cozy bowls i have been making has some major thickness when i sew the finishing touches. Like when i sew the top stitch around the outside edge. I hope that i am making sense? Thanks!
My mother taught me how to sew when I was a child but I never learned some of the basic bones like choosing threads and needle sizes. I have learned many things on my own but one thing I still have issues with is telling the size and type of the needle if it is lying loose in my drawer. I know they are marked on the side but it is so small I can not make it out. Any tricks?
Ok. Ball-point/Jersey needles for knits. But I’m hemming knitted t-shirts which need a twin needle. I cannot find a twin ball-point/Jersey needle. Do you think a twin stretch needle is good enough? There are plenty of knit t-shirts in stores with double line hems. What are they using? Do you think a trip to New Jersey is the key? 😄
Needles have been hard to come by lately. I am a new sewer, and I was able to get a pack of: schmetz universal 60/8. After perusal this article I’m afraid that I won’t be able to use them for the sewing I am doing. Mainly blankets, mid weight fabric. Do I need to wait to find a 12 like you instructed, or can I use this size?
I didn’t know that 12/80 or 14/90 were two different standards of numbers… 12 & 14 or 80 & 90… I always thought the numbers were actually the whole thing and I needed to remember 12/80 and not just 12 or 80. I knew about universal & ballpoint needles, but never head of stretch or sharp ones. I mostly use the universal 12/80 one.. I probably should switch to other ones more often. Perhaps this is why I have trouble with very thin fabrics. I shall have to go look for a stretch needle for dealing with lycra and such… I avoid using very stretchy fabrics since I have trouble sewing them.
All I have in my arsenal of sewing needles are universal. I wasn’t sure which size needle to use for mending my husband’s blue jeans. Evelyn, you’re a lifesaver! Thank you for posting your thorough explanation of sewing needles and types. Now I can go confidently to the store and not stand there looking dazed and confused anymore!
Thank you for being SO helpful!! I have a quick related question… I’ve been having a hard time with sewing covid19 cloth masks. I sew the ones with pleats. The machine I’m on is brand new but I have a really hard time getting through all of the layers of fabric easily without it jamming up. I was using a 12 universal and noticed when I switched to a 14, it got a lot better. Not great, but better. Now I’m starting to wonder if I should be using a sharps needle. Do you have any thoughts? I’ve tried googling it and surprisingly there are no results.
Evelyn, you did an excellent job explaining the needle types and sizes. Much of my sewing is with standardized needles too – sizes 9-14 and occasionally 16-18. The tension of the sewing machine is a factor as well. Though, I know what needles work best with what fabrics before beginning a project I always test the needle on a swatch (scrap) of fabric; it is a habit I carried over from learning to sew as a child. Testing the needle on the fabric is a great indicator of how the two will work together.
My Viking Husqvarna Emerald 183 doesn’t care what needle I use (standard 90/14). It takes a universal and will sew through whatever I place under that foot. Now my backup Singer 7640 Confidence has a tick. It only likes to sew quilting cottons. It doesn’t matter what needle I align to the fabric, it hates it and skips horribly if the fabric isn’t cotton.
you really are a source of inspiration! I am now starting on a new project, a wool skirt.. And I was wondering if I needed a special needle for this. As always timing is everything. I am correct in assuming I need a thicker needle for wool? My wool is not that thick and finely woven but still wool, isn’t it?
Hi Evelyn, I use universal/12 and jeans denim/16 & up. I am a big fan of new needles, I change my needle after using 2 bobbins. I always touch the point of the needle on purpose to check, ow! Don’t use bent needles, and keep your used needles separated from new.🤣 Funny bloopers, nobody’s perfect. Practice, practice, practice.
Thanks a lot for sharing these tips 🙂 I used to do projects with cotton, like pillow cases and all was fine. Until I wanted to make a dress from jersey and the lady in the store told me I had to buy a specific needle and specific yarn and I was like: “huh???”. Now I have some variations, including a twin needle for seams at the bottom. And recently I made a laptop sleeve out of an old jeans and used my denim needle. So I have experienced that indeed you need different kinds of needles if you step away from the plain cotton 🙂 Do you have a article about different kinds of yarn as well?
Hi and thanks liked your article a lot! Can you say what needle type and size do I need to get for a felt sewing project? I would like to start working with both organic felt (100% natural wool) and half organic. I think it should be 14 and sharp but I am not sure. Can you also emphasize what type of problem we should expect seeing when using the wrong needle? thanks again 🙂
Thank you so incredibly much! My first time shopping for needles went just as you said in the beginning except I was in the store googling on my phone which needle I needed for my Brother sewing machine. At the time I had no idea needles were standardized and fit all machines nor did I know what the numbers corresponded to or about different needles for different fabrics. Needless to say I was lost. It was only by chance that I ended up walking out with the correct needle for the fabrics I was using at the time. However as I venture more and more into sewing I’ve realized the need to better understand my needle choices. Thanks so much for saving me from ruining my future projects by using the wrong needle. Now I can shop with confidence!
For me to sew, I felt like it was my fault that my machine was knotting the thread, or tension wasn’t right. Forgetting totally about the needle. Anything I tried to sew was such a hassle. You told me I need to clean it, it’s time for oil, a time to adjust the tension. Did I listen??? NO! I had to go through all those things repeatedly because I’m such a hard headed person. So, now upon perusal your articles, I’m taking notes so I can see what you told me to do for what. You are a splendid teacher, thank you. I’m about too old to cut the mustard, so I found the catsup and still ticking away. Not only am I trying to figure the sewing machine out, I’m learning to play piano as well. Maybe one of the two will work. I’m aiming for both though. Have a blessed day everyone!
Wow! I was today years old when I found you and I’ve been binging your articles all afternoon, and your explanation of needles was fantastic. I’m reacquainting myself with my sewing machine and serger after many years of not sewing and realize how much I’ve missed them. Thank you for your clear explanations and the wide range of topics you address!
Evelyn as ever very helpful and thank you for trying to explain this maize of information. Have a lovely Christmas and a Happy New Year. Busy making bows for our chairs for the Christmas meal. Laid out my table runner today as I made it about 3 Christmas ago, it has lights sewn in and I switched them on for them to sparkle today. Take Care God Bless Kim x
Thank you SO MUCH! I sewed a wrap around skirt in school, back in 1968, using an old treadle machine… and decided I wasn’t made for sewing. Fast forward to the current pandemic, and I actually pulled out an old Singer to make face masks. And discovered that sewing with this machine was a lot different than the old antique. Yeah, found my love of sewing. But I have found the “which needle do I use” question to be so confusing that I’ve used nothing but a universal size 12. Ever! You explained the differences, and when to use which one SO VERY WELL. Now I can actually figure it out myself, without waiting in long lines in the fabric store to get to someone that would know the answer! AND without ruining my new sewing machine by using the wrong size, snapping it off inside the machine and having it create havoc inside the machinery! So again… thanks, you’re a great teacher!
Thank you for your articles – they are so informative! I’m still a beginner sewer, and I was interested to know how do you know if the needle size is wrong when you are practicing? What should you look out for? I’m guessing if it’s too thin then it struggles to get through the fabric, but how can you tell if it’s too big?
I just came across this article and there’s one thing frustrating me, the needle size that my machine came with is size 16 (normal/universal needle), if I’m sewing a chiffon does that mean i have to change to a suitable needle size and type? (I’m not forced to stick to my original needle size and type?) The machine I’m using is semi industrial juki tl 82. Reply plz
Another terrific article Evelyn – I’ve been following you for a while now and always come away with something to think about or some new knowledge. I’ve been sewing for 35 years and have to say that the Universal 70 is my favourite needle for cotton lawn, voile, viscose etc. going up to an 80 or 90 for thicker cottons/linens or many layers. I recall trying the microtex needles many years ago in the early 90s when they first came out but haven’t more recently. I’ll definitely be adding some to my supplies though after perusal your article!
What if I’m sewing lets say 3 or 4 layers of different kind of fabrics? Usually I have a pleated layer of satin and a layer of organza or light weight lace and then some sort of decorative ribbon like thicker polyester… I do sew them on separately but how should I pick my needle when sewing many different type and weight of fabrics at the same time?
Sorry I’m 3 years late to this article apparently lol 😂 thank you so much for the article!! However I am not so great yet with all the fancy terms on fabrics that your referencing. I am having sooo much trouble trying to sow through sticky Velcro, fleece, and Sherpa fleece 😬 maybe this was a bad idea idk but what needle would I need for this? The “sharp needle” maybe? I’ve been troubleshooting all afternoon and perusal your articles but I’m down to my needle probably being wrong. I am much to far into my fabric to start over lol. Especially with my level of experience. Thank you for listening!! 🥰
I purchased new “Singer” needles (made in Brazil) needles for my Featherweight 221 and they have the “cut out” on the left side of the needle that supposedly is there to prevent skipped stitches, however, all I get are skipped stitches it literally will not sew with this needle. I put a round type needle in and it sews fine! Is this normal?
Well, my little package of universal Brother needles which is the kind of sewing machine I have…only has a sz 11, 14, and 16. So when I’m supposed to use a 12, which is for the regular fabric, I’m unsure. In this pack the 11 would be for the light weight? And the 14 for the regular? Or the 11 because it is closest to the number 12 for the regular weight fabric?
Hi Evelyn, I’m new to sewing and have been sewing zip pouches. What needle do you recommend if I’m sewing over a nylon zipper to make a zipper tab. I’m also seeing over a couple layers of fabric, an interfacing, and attaching a zipper? Maybe a sharp needle? Could I get away with a universal 80? I assume I have to change my needle more often since I’m sewing over a nylon zipper. Would you agree?
I couldn’t sleep last night so I came across your articles. Three hours later, I dosed off. My friend came over around 10 and I told her about you. Neither of us sew but I recently bought a Brothers CS6000i. We watched your article together. I learned so much I sort of made her watch you with me. She thanked me later. My only question is about elastic for the waist. I wear long skirts, I’m short so anything I buy has to be cut and hemmed. The elastic rides up over my apple tummy. The elastic itches and constantly snaps. I’m using safety pins to keep the skirt up but then it rides up too high. Any information would help.
I have a console supposed to be an industrial machine model 4630r and I’m using a organ 110/18… I sew just about everything including Jean material and upholstery. Is there a needle that’s considered to be the strongest one for a 4360r consew? I buy sometimes the Singer heavy-duty needle, but the base of the needle won’t fit into the slot in my sewing machine
Wow! I didn’t even know you needed different ones. I am currently learning how to sew and have done a few projects already. Im working on a project that isn’t working out very well. I have embroidered mesh and my needle wont wont go through some of the fabric. I’m guessing because the Embroidered flowers are too thick for the needle. So Im trying to figure out what kind of needle I need. I think that would be a sharp? Unless if there’s one made specifically for embroidered materials?
I am in the UK and have a few issues I need help with please? 1. I have a domestic Janome machine and have been batch sewing bags made from some different types and weights of fabric joined together, reclaiming fabric samples and vintage cottons (also to keep them out of landfill) and I often find that sewing thin cotton as a lining to thicker furnishing or upholstery fabric causes issues, where the machine doesn’t seem to like moving them both together, but I was hoping to avoid having to use interfacing on the thinner fabric due to time and cost? Would spray starch help, I haven’t tried that? 2. I would also love to know which needle will be able to cope with several layers of thicker fabric for instance layers of cotton, upholstery fabric and a piece of webbing strap or a folded zip in between, I sew very slowly with a 3.0 stitch length but I am sure there must be a better way as the fabric still seems to easily go awry and the line of stitches can end up going off track? The needle sizes I have generally been using tend to be 90/14 or 100/12 but don’t really have much of a clue haha? 3. What is the best stitch length for this kind of fabric mix? What is the best overall technique to sew these very different weight fabrics combined together?
Hi Evelyn, how are you doing. Is the first time that I have visited your YouTube website and find it very use full. Those needles you talk about in this article are they available for the lock machine too? Especially the Ball Point and the Strech needle, and the twin needles?? And I want to say that there are some very thin threads on the market here, should I use a Stretch Threads to sew a Stretch Garment using a strech or Ball Point needle at the same time. Looking out for your advice, I stay with, Warm regards. F.L. Rollan from the Netherlands
What needle is the best for fleece? I just learned how to take my Brother sewing machine apart cuz I got fleece stuck in it lol. I’ve only been “playing” with my first sewing machine for two months now and trying to make a fleece pair of jammies for our Granddaughter. I think I read somewhere to use a Ball Point. Is this correct? Help!
my main thing lately is knowing which needle to use with whatever project…. like if i’m sewing a garment or what have you, like cotton….use which type…like my singer c5200 kept “thumping” and then would stop thumping…. it’s just confusing!! rethreaded everything, changed needles everything and the machine has only been used for less then an hour of actual sew time…. so i’m going back to basics as i’ve been saying alot of lately, it could be the type of needle i was using and i was only sewing masks…. so i went and got all the different type of needles i know i would use and will go from there…. just very hard to know which one to use….
I find that I have skipped stiches often even after I have had my machine serviced. I sew regular 100% cotton but during the course of the project the thickness changes. So I start just stiching 2 pieces together, then fold that to sew now 4 pieces together, and then the final fold puts it at 6-8 pieces together. The thicker step is where I get the most skipped stitches by far. Should I be going from a Universal size 80 or 12 to a sharp needle in the same 80 size? I sew cotton masks so it is all medium weight cotton but the process creates a thickness that causes issues.
I have a question about a needle Behavior so I’m usng a Kona cotton ultra fabric sewing seams and when I go to sew my needle does not go through the fabric easily so I switched off the needle thinking that it was dull same.problem. I can push the needle.down to.get.it.started but.sewing isn’t smooth and.im.sure.it.isnt good foe.me.to push it down machine is an older singer. Is this a sign in using wrong type/size of.needle what’s the difference between the universal and sharps? And what size do you recommend for.fabric? Thanks so much
What if you’re sewing two types of fabrics together but they have different needle recommendations? Two situations I’ve had: I’m sewing a strip of vinyl/faux leather that has a decent amount of stretch to the inner edge of a wool hat. I’d use a jersey/ball point needle for the stretchy vinyl and a universal needle for the wool. I’m lining a wool coat with a satin fabric and like with my hat situation, the needle is going to pass thru both fabrics during its making. I’d use a microtex needle for the satin but a universal needle for the wool. In these situations, which fabric should I consider more important to take into consideration while choosing a needle for the job?
I love your vids! I have several projects i am about to start. One is a dress I am taking out, one is an epic “creed” style jacket my friend made me for a wedding present. The jacket is a dense wool blend, would I use a specialty needle or a universal? The dress is like a cotton blend an i want to add velvet to take it out. Ive been a beginner for many years. it been a hobby since elementary school. I was always afraid of the machine so I usually just hand stitched with embroidery floss.
Thank you Evelyn. I sew mostly medium to heavy materials including leather and upholstery materials. I use a range of sizes from 18 to a 26 needle depending on what thread I am using. Different needle points for different applications in my Singer industrial machine. Myself I use Groz-Beckert needles. I was curious if you have any preference for needle brand ? Always great to watch your articles you are a great teacher.
I’m confuse I’m using a size 14 universal needle…the fabric is knit medium weight it tends to breaks easily I dont know who the culprit is….I adjust the tension and I even suspect the needle plate is touching it or maybe Im pushing the fabric unnoticed, or the seam Im doing has a layers? Im using a basic domestic sewing machine (brand new)….then I switch to 16 universal needle…it goes well Im just starting to famialirize my sewing machine…please help me😪 I am new to sewing, Im a fashion photographer/visual merchandiser/window dresser… hahaha but I have urges to sew and planning to have a career in fashion designing….your very professional in explaining there is a big difference of a schooled sewer from just gained experience sewer
I pretty much have the correct needle size down after sewing forca few decades. The best way I’ve found to keep my needles sorted and know what size is in my machine is to use a tomato. I’ve marked the different sections with the needle size and bp for ball point. Glued a small button to the top of a common pin. When I need to change needles I can immediately see what size is in my machine because that little pin with the button is in its place in the tomato.
A bit confused in spite of your very clear explanation. If I am going to hem a soft knit tee shirt and want to use a stretch twin needle, will this be right? Twin needles only seem to be made with sharp points, never ball points. Will these Universal stretch sharp pointed twins damage the fibers in the tee shirt knit fabric?
So extremely helpful. I only set up my sewing machine last week so you can get much newby than myself. I have already decided what projects I want to do however, understanding needles is great but now I need to learn about the type of fabric I have chosen. It looks like cotton but then it also looks like woven wool, I’m scratching my head. I’ve also chosen something lightweight but thick wooly type material for a dressing gown. Hmm what fabric and which needle do I chose. I’m going to take your advice and cut of some of each and practice using the information I have learned from this article. Thank you Evelyn, you are helping me so much with all of your articles and information. xoxo
Hi I’m at my witts end I had no problems that I couldn’t deal with with my brother innovis30 sewing machine apart from trying to get it to thread but I just decided to just do it the old fashion way and thread it my self.The problem I now have now which is a big problem is my needle broke and now I cannot get the new needle in; I have removed the broken needle before you ask but I’m really frustrated I cannot see the hole to thread the new needle through I have watched articles to see how it’s done all’s I see them do is feel, unscrew with the special screw provided or a flat screw driver, insert and then tighten. They say it’s easy grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr not it isn’t and with this covid19 plannedemic I cannot even take it to the machine shop to get them to look at the machine threader or to help me with my needle insertion problem.
This article has really helped me with needle types and sizes. I am a beginner at sewing. I just bought a Singer Heavy Duty 4452 sewing machine to start sewing. I haven’t opened it out of the box yet. My mom is going to help me get started on it this weekend. My goal is to learn how to make clothes. I go to the Carolina Renaissance Festival every year and see all those wonderful dresses. I want to learn how to make different kinds of dress costumes to wear at the festival. Like in other articles of yours where you explain to start small, I am going to start with simple projects like a pillow or something. After I get comfortable with it, I will learn how to hem and mend clothes. What I think that will be difficult to me is learning how to measure my own size, bust, inseam, etc.. Finally, I just want to say, I really love your articles so I did hit subscribe and have been perusal some of them. I have learned a great deal and haven’t even begun to sew yet.
It’s YouTubers like you that make newbs to sewing like me more relaxed when using such an expensive machine. I’ve started sewing because my daughter will be having her first child. So I want to sew baby quilts and make little outfits for him or her. I started to practise on a pair of overalls for myself using heavy linen and I’ve broken 2 needles. Especially when it came to the really thick parts of my project. Now with a bit of knowledge that you passed down it’s all good now. I actually had jeans needles that I purchased before I got the sewing machine. I totally forgot I had. I’m down to the belt straps. And hem and I’m done. I wish I remembered I had them when I started the project. Never mind I’m pretty sure I’ll use them again. Especially now that I’ll be quilting next. Sewing is so much fun. Thank you once again.
hi frist i love the articles you do.i have a question on a fabric i used for a long vest,the pattern called for cotton blend or linen, or frille fabric, i used fleece polyester spandex fabric, i was told by mood fabric it would be ok,but it was not,i used the purple needle and zig zag stitch,and the vest was out of shape and looked big,my question is should i have not used a strech fabric if the pattern does not call for it.
You might want to cover needle systems so that the sewer doesn’t accidently buy a needle imcompatible with their machine. A needle that is too long can cause a lot of damage and frustration. I use a lot of DX-1 needles that are size 22. I use both industrial and home type machines so I have to use the right needle for the macihine. Your articles are great. I learn a lot from them.
I love love love your website. Not only do you explain things clearly and concisely, but your cute old Hollywood style is so charming! Admittedly, I stumbled on your website because I got so excited about sewing vintage clothing, but as I’ve stuck around, I’ve found the main draw of your website for me has been learning the basics of sewing that I’ve never been able to learn. I’ve been sewing for a few decades now, but always without proper training, knowledge, technique, and I generally still am not a great sewer! But after perusal so many of your articles, I feel way more confident to pick back up this old hobby and try again with fresh eyes. I feel like I can actually start to improve over time instead of stay stagnant as a beginner for more decades to come! Thanks for being you! And oh my goodness is your style so cute! Have a beautiful day! Christi
Thank you for sharing this useful info. Although the sharpness of the Microtex sharp allows it to pierce the multiple layers of fabric in say, the seams of a cushion, or quilting; is there a possibility that it can break? Is it as strong as the No. 16 which I imagine is thicker than the Sharps. I’m scared of a needle breaking while I am sewing.
Thank you so much for the help on this. Aside from taking a sewing class in “middle school,” (way back in the day when it was still called “Junior High.” ) I have not sewed since. I am now 62 and bought a machine because I had some shirts I wanted to work on. Yes. I am old and hoping to be able to teach this old dog a new trick or two. Now. Your article was very helpful, except I do not (or cannot) see the numbers on the needle. They are color coded however. Red, Blue, one looks a little Orange. While I am still looking online for a color to number chart. Which one would be a #12. Thank you. I am sure I will find it, but have been looking for a while and have not yet come across it. Thanks so much. I will be referring to your YouTube website often, I am sure.
I do mostly menswear and furnishings so I tend to stick around a 14/90. My overlocker tends to have the same. I rarely use stretch and I tend to do patchwork rather than quilting so sharps aren’t really necessary. I’m experimenting with heirloom sewing so invested in a wing needle and a twin needle but these only get used rarely.
I have been sewing for years (on and off) and I can’t believe this is the first time I have ever heard this explained. Thanks. I’m feeling a little silly knowing how many stretch projects I have done and didn’t even know to use a ballpoint needle. It’s amazing how many worked out considering, although some didn’t and I didn’t know why!
I learned about ballpoint needles when I kept severing my knit threads with a universal needle. The fabric would unravel in spots after I sewed a seam. The other problem I still get is pulled threads on fine silk or light woven silk like fabrics. Sounds like I need a 70 sharp. Is this correct? Thank you so much for sharing all your wonderful knowledge. Best wishes for the new year!
i got size 14 on both my mini sewing machine n even the vintage heavy machine i recieved for a gift is size 14needle. i do find when i use it some lighter fabric do not sew to well or the thread tent to slip of when i start to sew. i will try a size 11-12 n see will it be better i learn something always from perusal your article thanks.
I been perusal you for a little while now, and although I’ve been sewing for a LONG time I have learned a few new things. You mentioned that all the needles fit all the machines, correct? This is good to know as the sales rep told me that only a certain brand would work on my new machine. (I’ve used all brands on my other machines without problems). I will try different ones in my new machine. Keep up the articles they are wonderful.
Wow, thank you, I have recently discovered your website and I just love your articles. You are a very good teacher and your articles are top notch. Thank you for tons of great info and tips. I did have a question about sewing machine needles… How often should I change my needle…is it project based or is there a tell tale sign that I should look for and know its time to change it?
You are literally god send! I have been meaning to make a dress – based on a dress I already own. I think the pattern is simple enough to follow, but then I started gathering materials and started to try to learn the machine, and you are right, panic set in. I don’t want to muck anything up, so I have scraps that I will use to learn the machine. But I have been perusal your articles for a week or so now, and I have to say, thank you. Thank you for providing this guidance. I have looked at a lot of other design and sewing articles, but they are not as thorough as you are, or perhaps I like the way you talk! Either way, just lovely, and thank you again.
This was very helpful. Although I have been using quilting cotton to make face masks, i really couldn’t tell if quilting cotton was considered a lightweight or medium weight when looking at the description on the needle packages. This helped me a lot to choose a needle when I ran out of Universal needles and only had to use a woven needle.
Thank you for a great website! One thing I can’t seem to find is how to know what type of needle it is if it is not in the box anymore, I sometimes forget to take the needle out of the machine and with the next project I don’t know what needle I used last. Not all brands have colour markings like Schmetz?
Hey there- I spend all afternoon cleaning the sewing machine, Ewen screw falls in the bobbin case, and deeper. I have been true all- Reason? The fabric I like a lot (Its stretchy, is knitted, is ribbed- and is bit velvety on one side- drives me nuts! Went from project to project with pretty successful stitches- but this bit- just do not go- when I bring my fabric. Even start to think finishing project hand sawing. Just looked at your article, at the end of all I watch to try to figure out what’s going on? I order a jersey needle- I would really like it helps because this feels so humiliating when a Machine drive you- you don’t drive the machine. Exhausted! – I figured out I need to try a double-needle, but then I need put thread true two needles- each time when the thread broke – I’m not putting myself in to. I have lots of similar fabric, better be something will sew it- any advice? I try all. Sometimes facing up the Velvety part helps- but not always- sometimes, it is like the thread broke always in the same place after just 5 cm.- sewing machine works perfectly on jeans, cotton/elastane..cotton. Currently, I work with standard needles and can not exactly say what needle is worst- 80 or 100. Maybe is the tread?…works on other fabrics.
It’s 1am and for the last few hours been trying to sort out the skipped stitches. My stitches are fine on most woven fabric, but the fabric I’m working with is slightly thicker and has foil prints on it. So I’m thinking it’s the needle I’m using 🤷♀️ It’s Christmas Eve & stores are closed tomorrow hahaha…need this dress made by Monday…Help!
Dear Evelyn. I’m from WV. I am traveling CNA. I work 7p-7a. When things are quiet. I hand embroidery. I sew with machine. I quilting. I am new to sewing. It is very relaxing. As a child I remember my mother who had 11 children. The only time I saw her relax is when she was sewing. I bought needles from Amazon. The sizes are not like the ones you talked about
The one thing that has always confused me about this, is the going up in size/thickness with stiffer/thicker fabric or multiple layers. I mean, I know from handsewing, that using a thicker needle makes it harder, not easier to push through. You need one, that’s thick enough not to bend, of course, but even a size 80 needle is already fairly sturdy. I’ve never gone higher than that, personally, I just change to a sharp/microtex needle for things like topstitching bulky edges or corsetmaking. I never had a bent needle or problems with skipped stitches or anything like that, either. Sharp and thin beats thick and sturdy by a mile, when it comes to flawless stitching, imo.
Fantastic, thank you. Am fairly new to sewing and have been looking at some different types of needles but I was completely confused by all the different types, numbers etc. You have helped me understand what it all means and now I can go off and buy some needles suitable for the fabrics I will be using. So very helpful. Thank you once again x
Cleared up the mystery surrounding needles for me. I do appreciate the information being presented was concise and clear. I’m a retired person learning a new skill and this type of single purpose short article really helps to focus on one important skill at a time. My mother was a tailor who learned her skill in Milan. I was always the best dressed kid in school. In a different time I would have learned from her; now I have you and try to learn and practice those vintage skills that result in the polished finish I’m familiar with.
I been sewing since I been 3 years old, I am now 61 years old, I took a break due to a fall, I broke my collar bone in 2 different places & leg, my tibia & just started back, it’s kind of hard, due to arthritis in my hands, they folded up like crab legs & some times painful, but I refuse to give up on my sewing, I don’t let it stop me from sewing, I am starting to get back into it, it’s a blessing from God & I am sew thankful 🙏❤️😊