- Pre-wash the fabric before cutting.
- Iron the fabric to remove wrinkles and make it easier to work with.
- Lay out the pattern on a flat surface and place the pattern pieces according to the provided layout guide.
- Use sharp fabric scissors to cut along the pattern lines.
- Consider how you will get the garment on and off.
- Find stylish and versatile jean patterns for different sizes, fits, and styles from Threads magazine.
- Use a denim needle when sewing denim. If you’re just hemming jeans, you might be able to use a larger size universal needle.
- Use heavy non-stretch woven fabrics like denim, heavy canvas, or corduroy.
- Download PDF patterns in US letter and A4 print-at-home sizes and A0 copy shop size.
- If using stretch fabric on a non-stretch pattern, usually size down. A muslin is advisable, but if you prefer not to muslin, use a smaller size universal needle.
For non-stretch denim, place the pattern pieces so that the grainline is running parallel to the selvage (finished edge) of the denim. For stretch denim, ensure that the direction of greatest grainline is chosen.
In conclusion, making jeans requires pre-washing, ironing, laying out the pattern, and using non-stretch, lightweight fabric for pocket lining and waistband facing. Follow these steps to create a comfortable and stylish pair of jeans.
📹 Making Jeans, All About Stretch Denim
What makes the fabric stretch? How much is a good amount of stretch? Coming soon in the series, we’ll cover what jeans patterns …
How to sew stretchy fabric to non-stretchy fabric?
To sew stretchy fabric to non-stretchy fabric, use a stretch stitch or zigzag stitch to join the fabrics together. Mark and cut the fabrics to the desired size and shape, then sew the right sides together using a stretch stitch or zigzag stitch. Stretch the fabric slightly to prevent puckering. The strongest stretch stitch is the triple stretch stitch, also known as the super stretch stitch or lightning bolt stitch, which provides extra strength and stability for stretchy fabrics like swimwear, activewear, and dancewear.
To hem a 4-way stretch fabric, mark and cut it to the desired length, fold it up to the hemline, pin it in place, and sew the hem using a stretch stitch or twin needle. Trim any excess fabric before sewing.
Do you need a special needle to sew stretch fabric?
When sewing delicate fabrics like Lycra, it is crucial to use a stretch needle instead of standard needles. Stretch needles have a specially designed point to prevent snagging and tearing, as well as skipped stitches. Some stretch needles come with a coating for easier cutting and glide through stretch fabric. Stretch needles can be found online or in local craft stores. Ballpoint needles, designed with a bulbous tip, can also be used for stretchy fabrics like Lycra.
Ballpoint needles glide through fabric fibers easily due to their stretch properties. When sewing with stretchy fabrics, it is essential to use a stretch stitch or zigzag stitch to ensure smooth movement without breaking the thread. Both types of needles are essential for a smooth and efficient sewing experience.
What fabric stretches in jeans?
Stretch jeans, composed of a blend of cotton, polyester, and spandex, are renowned for their comfort and flexibility. These garments offer a considerable degree of flexibility, which makes them particularly well-suited to individuals engaged in active pursuits. Additionally, they are fitted to the body of the wearer and can be worn on a variety of occasions. In contrast, non-stretch jeans are rigid and impede movement.
What kind of needle do you use for stretch denim?
The author discusses the process of sewing denim, focusing on straight-stitch lengths between 3. 0 mm and 4. 0 mm and increasing machine tension to 4. 6. They recommend using a stretch stitch for denim with spandex, such as a narrow zigzag, as straight stitching can lead to popped seams. A new denim needle, either size 90 or size 100, is essential for piercing thick fabric with minimal deflection and less breakage. For thick topstitching thread, a size 100 needle is recommended due to its larger eye.
The author prefers thick thread for non-stretch denim and a size 100 needle for topstitching. If stretch denim is used or the machine is not cooperating with the thick topstitching thread, a triple stitch with regular thread is used. Regular (50 wt.) thread is used in the bobbin, as topstitching thread is too thick for bobbins to handle.
For jeans seams, the author uses a regular foot or straight-stitch foot, while edge-stitching foot is used for most topstitching. Merchant and Mills Glass-Head pins are preferred for pinning multiple layers of denim, but Wonder Clips are used for holding more than two or three layers.
One of the biggest challenges in sewing denim is getting over the “humps” created by multiple layers of fabric. The Big Jig is a helpful tool that allows the foot to remain parallel to the feed dogs as they approach the hump and come down the other side of the hump.
What is the best stitch for stretch fabric?
For sewing stretchy fabric on a regular sewing machine, a ballpoint needle is the most efficient option due to its special tip that avoids cutting loops, preventing unraveling and hole formation. Ballpoint needles come in various sizes and can work well on various stretch and woven fabrics.
For construction, use a classic zigzag stitch with a stitch setting of 2 length and 2. 5 width, which stretches with the fabric, creating flexible seams and a neat finish. For a polished hem finish, use a twin needle, which replicates the twin lines of stitching found on shop-bought clothes.
Fit your machine with a twin needle and second thread spool according to your machine’s instruction manual. Twin-needle stitching is more challenging as it requires stitching on the ribbed side of the fabric, which creates a zigzag effect on the underside and covers the raw edges of the hem. If the fabric is unruly, tack or pin it in place, and use an erasable pen to mark the stitching line on the front of the fabric or use the tacking line as a guide.
What tension should I use for stretch denim?
It is recommended that the number of fabrics used in the testing of new or familiar fabrics be reduced from four to three or two in order to reduce the overall cost and time required.
What is the best thread for stretch denim?
This guide provides tips and tricks for sewing professional denim garments, focusing on the use of all-purpose polyester thread for construction and upholstery or topstitching thread for topstitching. Denim, a versatile fabric with a twill weave, comes in various weights, washes, and colors and can be used for various garments. The guide covers essential information and tricks for working with denim, including proper pretreating, cutting, and marking techniques. Denim’s strength can be both an obstacle and an asset in sewing, making it a valuable fabric stash essential for various garments.
Why can’t I sew stretchy fabric?
To ensure a smooth sewing process, it’s essential to use the feed dogs on your sewing machine without pushing or pulling the fabric. If you notice excessive pressure from the presser foot, adjust it according to the machine manual. For knit fabrics, a pressure of 1 or lower is usually suitable. A walking foot can help feed the fabric gently and uniformly, with its upper feed dogs ensuring even pull through the machine. A knit foot, which doesn’t have these upper feed dogs, applies less pressure and feeds the fabric more evenly.
Do 2% elastane jeans stretch?
98/2 stretch denim fabric is primarily made of cotton with a small percentage of elastane or lycra for a subtle stretch. It is recommended to wear smaller sizes for a snug fit and avoid washing in hot temperatures as it can damage the elastane. 4-way stretch denim fabric stretches in four directions, creating a comfortable and flattering fit. Modern designs often include elastane or lycra to support the stretch and overall shape.
Super stretchy denim fabric, commonly used in jeggings or skinny jeans, is a blend of cotton, polyester, and elastane to provide a stretchy fit that bounces back. As long as care instructions are followed, super stretchy jeans will retain their shape over time.
How do you make denim stretchy?
To ensure optimal wear of a new pair of jeans, it is recommended to soak them in cold water and allow them to air dry until they are damp but not completely dry. It is recommended that the jeans be worn and moved around for the duration of the day to ensure optimal conformability to the body.
📹 The BEST Hack for Sewing Stretchy Material – Quick Tutorials
Hello friends! In today’s Quick Tutorials video, I wanted to show you this neat little hack for sewing stretchy knit material. If you use …
After 35 years of sewing professionnally as a costume designer, I still learn some things in your articles! Altering clothes is a very specific skill and I am very thankful that you take time to share this skill with us to appreciate and improve! All that done in such a tone that we feel like we are by your side, being hinted by a dear friend! Wish I were nearer so I could go tell you all this in person!
You are a God send !! I am a very novice sewist and I have to adjust some clothes for my husband and it’s scary to try cause I don’t want to ruin it. You are such a talented person in making these adjustments and I love your happy disposition. I watch to learn and you’re an excellent teacher ! Thank you for explaining how to sew stretchy fabric. I have the BP needle but that tape trick …wow 😮, that was a very neat trick. I have stayed away from stretchy because of skipping stitches . Next year, I am going to try sewing stretchy T shirt . I have the pattern, just haven’t found the time or courage to buy the fabric and make it . Pattern was on sale. Thank you very much for posting articles, you’re like our teacher, just on a screen. 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
I can’t tell you how grateful I am for you and all your tips!!! Please do a article on fixing shoulder divots on a blazer and hemming flared pants! As a petite person who has to always have clothes altered your articles have been so unbelievably helpful! I have only been able to find 1 article on hemming flared pants and 1 on shoulder divots on a blazer but I would love your take!!! 💞💞💞💞
You are just the best of the best. Always so precise in all sewing phases as well as explanations. I wish I lived near you so I could take lessons; you make a person desire to sew and sew well. Can you please show how to shorten (hem) velvet slacks, and can I use ban roll on them? Thank you for all your wonderful articles.
I have a question that may not be appropriate here… But I’m at my wits end… I have more than one T-shirt, where the seams look perfect, but keep turning up. Even after ironing them down, the bottom waist hem and the sleeve hems are rolling up… Is there a solution…? Or is this just more cheap imports that are unfixable… ( I love your shows… So… If I’m out of line with this question… Please forgive my ignorance…) Thanks for teaching us who are just trying to save money during bad economic times…
Finding you was great timing. Just about to start working on a bunch of sweatpants/lounge pants for gifts, and one person (TREVOR) really really wanted this stretchy sports fabric. I was a little hesitant, as I’m more comfortable hand sewing right now, and worry about knits and stretchy. I’ll definitely be giving this a try!