The grain line of fabric refers to the direction of its yarns relative to the selvedge edge. There are three main fabric grains: lengthwise or straight grain, which aligns with warp yarns parallel to the selvedge, providing strength and stability; crosswise grain, formed by weft yarns perpendicular to the selvedge, offering flexibility and stretch; and bias grain, which runs perpendicular to the selvedge.
Fabric grain is essential for achieving the desired fit and flow in sewing, quilting, and any kind of garment making. It is created by weaving two or more threads at right angles to each other. To cut fabric on the grain, it must be cut parallel to the selvedge. The grainline is marked on the pattern with a line and arrows, and the purpose of the grain line is to help you align the pattern on the fabric.
In this video, Meg explains the grainline, how to find the three grainlines on a piece of woven fabric, and what happens when you don’t cut on the grainline. The grainline is the direction of the warp and weft threads used in weaving the fabric. In sewing, the term grainline is used to determine the direction on the fabric a pattern should be cut.
In summary, fabric grain is an important element of sewing, quilting, and garment making, as it helps achieve the desired fit and flow. There are three main types of fabric grains: straight grain, cross grain, and bias grain. Understanding these grain lines is crucial for creating a well-fitted and flowing garment.
📹 What is the grain of fabric? What is the grainline? And how to find and use it! – Sewing Terminology
What is the grain of fabric? What is the grainline in sewing? In this video, on Sewing Terminology I’m going to explain what the …
Does Grainline matter?
The grain of the fabric is of great consequence in the placement of patterns, as it determines the direction in which the pattern pieces are to be positioned. Warp threads serve as the fundamental structure, with the straight grain running parallel to these threads, which act as the fabric’s supporting framework. In light of the aforementioned, it is evident that grainlines are of paramount importance in the realm of fabric design.
Is grainline the same as stretch?
The grainline, the opposite of DOGS, indicates the direction in the fabric that is least stretchy or not stretching at all. It is perpendicular to DOGS and usually corresponds to the fabric length or weaving direction. Each sewing pattern must have one of these three lines on each piece, guiding the arrangement of pieces and cutting and sewing the garment. To achieve a successful result, it is essential to identify DOGS and grain-line lines on the fabric, as incorrect identification may result in an undesired garment shape or not fitting as intended.
What is 100% denim made of?
Authentic denim is made with 100% cotton, providing a durable and unique texture. It molds to the body with each wear, making jeans uniquely yours. While cotton-only jeans are preferred, some stretch options offer extra comfort. Maintaining denim is essential as it ages and breaks in well, becoming more comfortable as it gets older. True denim should be worn in to mold to the wearer’s form, become softer, and cultivate its own personality. It is very low maintenance.
What direction to cut denim?
Traditional wisdom suggests that the lengthwise grain is the most stable option for waistbands, but this is not always the case. Denim shrinks more on the lengthwise grain, so it is better to cut it crosswise. Stabilizing with fusible doesn’t significantly impact the outcome, as cutting on the fold ensures the waistband shrinks at the same rate as the legs. There are several options for waistbands, including using two layers of denim without stabilizing, using medium weight fusible for shape retention, and using a non-stretch cotton lining for a soft, non-binding option.
For pocket lining and waistband facing, any non-stretch, lightweight fabric can be used, and scrap bags can be used to experiment with color and texture. This approach ensures a comfortable and comfortable waistband in jeans.
How to tell grainline of fabric?
The grain of a garment is of significant importance, as it affects the garment’s overall appearance, fit, and drape. All yarn-based fabrics possess a grain or directionality, with the term “grain” denoting woven fabrics and “direction” referring to knit ones.
What is the meaning of grain in material?
Metals’ structural properties consist of crystalline grains, which are formed from the molten material during solidification and interact with other ingredients like phases and contaminations. These grains are shaped by the material composition and manufacturing methods, such as forging, casting, or additive manufacturing. The grain size, orientation, and other structural characteristics are directly linked to the mechanical and technological properties of the materials.
External influences, such as chemical influences like corrosion, chemical and physical influences like heat treatment processes, and mechanical influences like forging, rolling, and bending, also influence the structure.
Does denim have a grain?
Yarn-dyed denim is a fabric that is dyed before weaving, giving it its signature variegated look. The warp threads run along the grain are traditionally dyed indigo, while the weft threads on the crossgrain are left un-dyed. This creates a strong and flexible weave, giving denim its resilience. In a twill weave, there are typically 2 or 3 warp threads for every single weft thread, which gives denim its small diagonal ribs.
How do you find Grainline on denim fabric?
The term “grain of fabric” is used to describe the direction of thread travel, which can be either the lengthwise grain (also known as the warp) or the straight grain (or selvage). The lengthwise grain is defined as a long thread that is parallel to the selvage and runs the entire length of the fabric yardage.
What happens if you cut fabric against the grain?
Cut your fabric off grain can cause fabric to twist around your body, increase stretch, or appear askew, especially when using prints like gingham or stripes. If you cut closer to the bias, the fabric will stretch and grow as you wear it. However, if you cut off grain, the fabric may appear visually off, especially if you use gingham or stripes. It’s important to consider the risks associated with your grainline and whether you always need to get the grainline exactly right.
Why is grain important in fabric?
To identify the lengthwise and crosswise grain of a fabric, follow these steps:
- Identify the selvage, the tightly woven edge along each side of the fabric.
- Locate the lengthwise grain, which runs parallel to the selvage, which is the direction of the warp threads.
- Feel the fabric to determine which direction has less stretch.
- Identify the cut edge, which is perpendicular to the selvages and not factory-finished.
- Determine the direction of the crosswise grain, which runs perpendicular to the selvage and parallel to the cut edges.
- Feel the stretch, as the crosswise grain may have slightly more stretch than the lengthwise grain, especially in fabrics like cotton.
In summary, identifying the lengthwise and crosswise grain of a fabric is crucial for its quality and durability.
Is denim stronger than cotton?
Denim, a heavier fabric than regular cotton, is known for its strength and longevity due to its higher density and thickness. Its increased thread count makes it durable, able to withstand harsh use and frequent washing. Heavy-duty denim is used in workwear, jackets, and upholstery. The type and quality of yarn used in denim production, such as ring-spun and combed cotton, significantly impact its strength and durability.
📹 Preparing Off-Grain, Stretch Denim Fabric
SewItYourself www.Sew-it-Yourself.com and Thelma Horton shows the process of preparing a piece of fabric that was wrapped on …
This one popped up on my YouTube feed and really liked it, very clear. Here’s a good example of what happens when something is “not on grain:” you look down at your pants and the seam is snaking, spiraling down your leg! An exaggeration. But when you see fabric “twisting” wonky on a seam, that’s off grain and there’s no making it right. Depending on the fabric and garment drape, cutting a garment off grain can be fatal, when completed it will never hang right or move with the body correctly. When I read how Chanel suits were besoke made, I really got. But that leads to vid on ironing techniques: hams and clappers please.
I must have watched 14 of your articles looking for the info in this one. Re: I’m still deciphering the information from the pattern package. Im a single dad and the first sewing project I’m taking on is my daughter’s wedding dress. This is because I don’t like her suitor and want to sabotage the wedding. Just Kidding. I’m just going to attempt a short-sleeved medium weight button down cotton work shirt w/collar and pocket. Wish me luck.
I’m new at sewing and before cutting my first piece I want to be sure to understand all those scary words such as selvage, grainline, etc. (especially because the patterns I have are in english and it’s not my mothertongue !). You did an amazing job at explaining everything, so THANK YOU !! it makes everything clearer ! Love your articles, that makes me a new subscriber to your website 🙂
OMG! Where have you been. I love all of your articles and when I am finish perusal one I see the first 25 articles in the youtube suggestion column are all yours. I don’t even have to search for them. They are coming to me like hot potatoes. Thank you so much. I have always love to sew since I was a little girl but I failed my intent back when I was in high school. I decided to give it a try about 5 years ago and I stopped because I couldn’t figure out anything on my own. Now, I found you. I am definitely giving it another try and I am confident this time will be a success because of you. My biggest problem is that I keep ending with an end longer than the other one and end up cutting the left over edges. I think if I am not mistaken my problem is the grain. I cut the pattern where ever is a space in the fabric that fits no matter what dirrection of the grain. I am going to check out your website. Thank you so much. You are amazing!!!
Before you said you were a teacher I knew it right away. You have that kind of methodology only academics have, and hey, I’m not only learning sewing here, I’m only learning English and it tremendously give me the willing to learn more as I understood every single word you said. I should also say I like your style and wonder if it’s your everyday style or it’s just for the school…
I have been perusal sewing articles recently but am from the UK and learnt to sew in the 1960s and 1970s. We have different words for many things – bias and selvedge are the same but I only associate grain with wood. We called these the warp and the weft. There are many other examples. You say that when you start sewing it’s like learning a new language. Here I’m learning yet another language!
I have been sewing for over 60 years and it never ceases to amaze me how many people today launch into sewing without understanding the basics. So this kind of instruction is invaluable in my opinion. But I also wanted to tell you a funny story. A newbie sewist asked on a Facebook group how she could find the grainline. Not an uncommon question except that as I carried on reading the post it became clear that she thought it was only in one place and she was having difficulty in locating it. I thought I may have misread her post so I re-read it, once then twice. No, I hadn’t misunderstood her. So I answered her as tactfully as I could and explained it was any line that runs parallel to the selvage.
Thankyou ❤🧵 So much for your website this has helped me a lot. I’ve always loved to sew I got my 1st machine when I was a kid but never stuck with it until now I’m 41 and fallen back in love with sewing. I never was patient enough to learn the importance of everything but now I can’t get enough lol your articles are awesome and explain everything so well. Thankyou ❤🌹🧵
Thank you for these. I’m currently doing a mock-up dress. The pattern of the back panel of the skirt marked the grain but her book also includes a diagram of how to arrange the pieces on the fabric. It had the panel going a different way. I think the diagram is wrong so we’ll see. I rewatched you article (and checked her book) because it wasn’t lining up. You both said where the grain line was so I’m not making a mistake. Every little reference helps.
Hello Beautiful, I Am A Beginner Sewer The Last Time I Sew Was Back In Jr High In The 80’s Lol, Well Im A Grammie Now & Im Back At It With A Goal To Become Grammie Everything Maker, Lol I Wanted To Say Thank You!!! You Are A Blessing Not Just To Me But Thousands Of People, You Are An Amazing Professional Sewer Thank You & May God Bless You With So Much Blessing’s That It Over Flows, Thank You Beautiful Once Again…….
Hardly watched 1 random min of this so this might seem illogical but ur explanation and voice soon makes me think u know, or else love, what you’re doing here. If that’s what u feel, thanks for making this article! I am seeing myself coming back here to see what more you’ve created n info u share. Keep doing ur thing if u like it. I’d be happy to hear from you Byee! Christina 🙂
Thank you Evelyn for showing us all this very important information ! More sewing tutorials that are for beginners should have this too, this step of sewing is not stressed enough I believe, I went 15 years without doing it and my oh my did I have the hardest time matching my garments majority of the time but still figured out a way lol but after using this step it is a complete life changer. Love you articles and keep fighting the good fight 💗
hi Evelyn! I’m just learning how to sew and this article is very helpful. But i just got a question about grainline-do you I need to follow your advice about following the grainline when cutting fabric if the fabric is not a print, but a plain one color fabric? So I can cut the pattern pieces as I want to save fabric. Thanks in advance.
I just bought and made a pdf bodysuit pattern, and it called for the more stretchy crosswise-grain to go down the length of the bodysuit rather than across the bodysuit. I made a call, and switched that around, sewing it up with the crossgrain stretching across the body as that is usually how it’s done. However….while it otherwise fit me beautifully and like a glove, it was a touch too small for my 168cm height (the pattern size was made for women 158-168 cm tall), and I wonder if that is because I didn’t follow the instructions and have the stretchiest part of my fabric going lengthwise down the body. Is that perhaps why the pattern to called for this unusual grainline? To account for height?
I have watched this article four times now because I’m trying to cook lunch while listening. I swear I still don’t have it down. Here’s to the fifth playback being the charm! It’s not that you’re explaining it in a difficult to understand manner, I’m just not able to give it my full attention. I really enjoy you and your accent! Where are you from?
Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge. I just got a Singer HD for my wife and I. I have not used one yet but grew up perusal mom and later in life my father doing auto upholstery. I love vintage Hawaiian shirts but rarely find the right look for my tastes. My mom now in her 80s and dad past, I have been taking her to the fabric store and seeing several vintage prints that I love! So, why not try to learn to make ones I want?…. It looks to me to be on the simpler side of patterns to start with. I found some McCalls 8810 8 in one patterns to try. Not quite the Hawaiian cut I really want….. I am not in to PFD files so if anyone knows of a printed pattern out here, please post the brand and number so I can try to locate one. Thanks!
How do I find the grain if the selvedge is missing ( ie, purchasing a remnant at the fabric store or repurposing a piece of fabric like a drape /curtain or tarp) and should I cut the selvedge off my material before or after washing my fabric before cutting my pattern pieces? I love your articles, but the more I learn, the more I realize there is way more I realize my simple projects aren’t so simple! 😳 Believe it or not, I find it much easier to completely disassemble, repair and rebuild an engine than to sew “properly”! Yeah I can attach multiple pieces of material that will hold together, but not done properly. Not yet anyway!😆 Thank you for all your help! ✌
I started learning my self and don’t understand these terms infact suck at fallowing patterns I end up making my own patterns and learning throughout. I’d like my struggles to be less. I wanted to take a sewing classes in high school but I moved schools prior to the semester. I’m now 26 I took theater makeup loved it but I want to take a sewing class in college but now I’m worried the teacher is not going to be as cool as you are I know u offer classes but I’m a hand on learner who asks a million questions I do better with actual interactions 🥺 I’m so sad ur class is not by me.
Thanks! I finally understood it. I was getting frustrated with myself earlier when I couldn’t understand the sewing book I was reading up about this topic. It helped that I paused this article first, searched for your selvage article and watched it, then returned to this article and continued perusal it. Very clear and concise explanation. Thank you once again.
8:02 … My answer to your question is that I find this surprisingly informative. I learn things that I didn’t know before. I started learning how to sew around Nov of last year and i’ve been on and off with it. I gave up when I felt like the result of my sweat isn’t the same as what I thought it’s gonna be. And I would continue back when I find myself fired up to make something. perusal this articles made me feel like I’m back to my schooldays and somehow reminded me how in class I would just write down whatever the teacher is giving me without understanding the full concept (blindly writing down notes). But now that it concerns me wanting to understand sewing, I am actually writing notes while actually understanding the informations given. Back in my schooldays, when I look back into my notes, I would probably grunt in frustration if needed in exam/test. But now, looking back in my notes I got from you, it’s more than just complicated English words (it’s not my first language.) in short, you gave me more than the knowledge of sewing (which is the realization of things I didn’t know I would get).
EXTREMELY useful. I bought a sewing machine a couple years ago and have learned a little bit perusal YouTube articles here and there, but a seamstress just hired me to help her sew items for different boutiques and shops that place orders with her so I need to learn all of this ASAP. She is great and has been teaching me as we go but I am going to binge watch all of your articles to learn as much as possible on my own. My dream is to eventually start my own sewing business from home ….I have a long way to go before I am ready for that. So glad I found your website ❤
Hi Evelyn, I’m new to sewing and have viewed several of your beginner articles to learn the basics. I am grateful for your time in making the articles and sharing your expertise in a simplified manner. Also appreciate that your articles are just the right length; not overwhelming for a beginner. I give all your articles a Thumbs Up! I cleaned my sewing machine and changed my needle (after one year of use) with your article tutorial, too! Nothing remarkable below deck, fortunately ….surprisingly straightforward to do. Again, great teaching! Thank you.
this is really awesome thank you. My natal family initial sewing training came from a woman who early in her life learned to sew and then took some classes at a fashion college and always acted so haughty about everything. She was mean and callous and hardly ever really truly explained anything to me. Later in my own life, I took lessons that were barely offered in college but the only thing they taught us was like – buttonholes – seams – burn testing fabric. All things I was intuitively familiar with but did they teach us how to find the grain of a fabric? No. Because we weren’t actually learning to sew anything of substance yet. That was it too they only offered that one basic of sewing class and then by the time I got to Uni I was so focused in an area of specialization that I couldn’t afford a single credit in any other field and anyway- the theater arts classes which offered sewing courses where garments are actually constructed- are reserved for small numbers of theater majors only. It’s a little crazy for me to think about the fact that I can sew a buttonhole for a garment on a machine but can’t understand why my pattern pieces never match up right and always have to fiddle with them to make them work… I’ve always wanted to understand grain so thank you!
Great article this has explained a lot to me. I’m new to sewing and terms like this are a little confusing to start off with. Question. I have a pattern that has the grain line marked on it and it with “grain” written next to it…but which grain is it referring to lengthwise or cross grain? Or does it not matter which. Doesn’t say anything in the pattern about it. It’s a pattern bucket hat if that helps. Also I’ve seen patterns that are made from jersey that have arrows that say “stretch” what’s that all about?
Oh my goodness Evelyn, this is the third article that has helped me TREMENDOUSLY. I’m starting off with a basic sewing project and I’m using a Simplicity pattern and every time I come along terminology I don’t know, I look up your articles. Thank you soooo much for taking the time to explain everything thoroughly!! 2019 is my year to become a seamstress!
I have been sewing, using the trial and error method, for nearly 60 years. The reason for instructions on patterns becomes clear when one sees the result of not precisely following them. It is a delight to watch and listen to you. Having never had a sewing lesson, I have probably made just about all the mistakes. It would have been lovely to have your website and instructions around all these years. I am glad to say, while I did make a lot of mistakes, I did learn by them. I am so glad for the people who have you as a wonderful resource thereby saving them many hours of frustration and needless expense.