The article discusses eight ways to finish seams without a serger, including pinking shears, French seams, zigzag stitch, folded zigzag, straight stitch, hem tape, overcast presser foot, and overcast seam on two layers. Pinking shears are the easiest and quickest technique to prevent fabrics from fraying. French seams are another option, as they require cutting the edges of seam allowances. Zigzag stitch is another method that can be used to trim away excess fabric.
Finishing seams without a serger is possible, but it requires careful planning and practice. One way to achieve a secure raw edge is by sewing a seam using the correct seam allowance and then trimming away any excess fabric. This involves sewing the wrong sides facing using half the seam allowance, pressing and clipping excess fabric, and turning the fabric inside out so the right side is facing out.
The blind seam stitch is another option for finishing seams without an overlocker or serger. This method works on some fabrics and creates a neat edge. If you don’t have a serger, the zigzag stitch can be used as a simple way to finish seams. Three-step zigzag is recommended for edge finishing, while honeycomb stitch is also a useful option.
In summary, finishing seams without a serger is essential for ensuring the longevity of your garment. There are various methods to achieve a secure and professional finish, including pinking shears, French seams, zigzag stitch, and hem tape.
📹 10 Seam Finishes Without a Serger || Basic to Couture
No serger? No problem! Here are 10 seam finishes with no serger needed! From basic to couture, these finishes can help you …
How to finish seams if you don’t have a serger?
Finishing seams on handmade clothes is crucial for neatness, strength, and preventing fraying. If you don’t have an overlocker or serger, the zigzag stitch can be used on your sewing machine. This technique is a common method before using an overlocker. It’s recommended to get an overedge, overcast, or overlock foot for your sewing machine, which may have a buffer or guide that aligns with the fabric’s raw edges. If you don’t have one, test the placement of the zigzag by turning the handwheel towards you before placing your foot on the pedal. This will help ensure the zigzag landing is in the right position.
Does zig zag stitch stop fraying?
This article provides a simple method to finish seams using a zig-zag stitch. First, sew the seams as usual and trim them down a few mm to ensure the stitch fits properly. Set the machine to sew a regular sized zig-zag stitch, attaching an overlock or overcast foot if necessary. Double check stitch settings on a fabric scrap and familiarize yourself with stitch spacing.
Stitch along the raw seam with the metal of the foot, working on both raw edges if using lightweight fabric. If using medium or heavyweight fabric, sew each raw edge individually. When the seam ends, leave a long tail on the thread and tie a double knot, trimming tails once stitching is secured. Repeat for the other raw edge.
Press the seam open or to one side if sewn together. Press a single seam towards the back of the garment. This stitched finish reduces fraying with wash and wear, but is generally avoided for fabrics that fray considerably, such as chiffon and satin, which finish best with an overlocker or French seam.
How to stop fabric from fraying without a serger?
To prevent unraveling and finish seams without a serger, consider using pinking shears, ZigZag seams, Turn and Stitch, Machine Overcast, Hong Kong or Bound Seams, or French seams. These methods can help prevent unraveling and make the inside look nicer. Using a serger is one of the best ways to achieve finished seams on a sewing project. However, if you don’t own a serger, there are many ways to finish seams without a serger. For more details, check out the tutorial provided at the bottom of the post.
Can you overlock by hand?
An overlock stitch is a method used to hem fabric edges to prevent fraying. It is commonly used in manufactured clothing and can be done by hand. To begin, mark out every 1/8 inch for even stitches. Start by sinking the needle through the first mark and through the other fabric, ensuring the thread is not tightly pulled through. Pull the needle back through the loop where the thread was tied. Push the needle through the second mark, which starts at the last stitch, and string the needle through that loop to continue the pattern.
What can you use instead of a serger?
Pinking shears are a beginner-friendly method for finishing seams without a serger. They are specialized scissors that cut fabric with a wavy line instead of a straight line, as fabric frays less on the bias (on the diagonal), resulting in a wavy edge that unravels significantly less than a straight-cut edge. This method is best for projects that won’t be machine-washed or made from fabric that doesn’t fray.
What stitch to use instead of serging?
The zig zag stitch is a technique used to sew close to the raw edge of seams, ensuring the fabric doesn’t fray or unravel during wear and washing. This technique can be used on each side of the seam or joined with the seam stitch line. Trimming excess with scissors is another option.
Finishing the seams of woven garments serves two purposes: making the garment pretty on the inside and securing the raw edges to prevent fraying or unraveling. A serger is the preferred method for finishing ear edges. If a serger isn’t available, sewing machines or pinking shears can be used to give raw edges a secure and pretty finish. The choice of method depends on the fabric, tools available, and desired interior appearance.
Can you overlock on a regular sewing machine?
The overlocker foot is a snap-on foot that can be easily attached and removed from the presser foot holder. It is compatible with most low shank sewing machines and can be adjusted using three available adapters. Overcast or overlock stitches are zigzag stitches with more structure, suitable for thin to medium weight fabrics and stretch fabrics. The sewing machine has two options (stitches 5 and 6) for serging seams or overlocking fabric edges. For more information on these stitch options, refer to the post about high and low shank machines.
What can I do instead of overlocking?
A zigzag edge is ideal for lightweight fabrics and sheers, mimicking the look of an overlocked edge but can be done on most domestic sewing machines. However, lightweight fabrics may create an undesirable “chewed up” look. A polished and professional finish is essential for projects, as neatly finished seams can help the garment last longer, stay together better, and strengthen the seams. While an overlocker is the best way to finish a seam to a professional standard, there are plenty of ways to finish seams using a regular sewing machine or tools you already have. Techniques for finishing seams without an overlocker or serger include:
- Using a straight stitch to create a smooth, even surface\n2
How to stop denim from fraying without sewing?
Liquid fray-stop is appropriate for use on smaller holes and instances of light fraying, although it may be advisable to conduct a preliminary trial to ascertain its efficacy. The product should withstand washing, but jeans should be air-dried. It is imperative to ascertain that the product does not become rigid.
Can I turn my sewing machine into a serger?
Serging and overlocking are techniques used to create a serged edge in quilting and finishing edges. While a serger is necessary for creating a true serged edge, an overlocking foot can recreate this effect. The foot allows for secure overlocking stitches and pin and ladder stitches. The stitch used depends on your preference and machine options. To test the effect, fold scrap fabric and try different stitches. This method requires patience and can be found in online stores.
What stitch is closest to a serger?
The overlock stitch, a fundamental serger stitch, is frequently utilized for seams, particularly in knit materials, due to its durability and adaptability. This makes it an optimal selection for sewing knit materials.
📹 🌟9 Seam FinishesWithout a Serger or Overlocker |Sewing Tips and Tricks for Jeans and Other Fabrics
Thank you for this – I am 62 and have been sewing since I was 5. My grandma and mom taught us – my grandma’s family were tailors/seamstresses. My grandma would fly from her grave if unused a serger. This finish has always been associated with what we now call fast fashion. She made a lot of custom gowns and dresses for women in the 30s, 40s and 50s. She would never have considered serging any of those garments – it would have been perceived as tacky. She always said, why would you spend the time and money making a special garment and then not finish the inside to be as beautify as the outside. Some makers think get mad at me for my distaste for serged edges. Unless you’re pre-finishing a puffy quilted fabric so it it’s unwieldy, I see no reason to not take the extra time to properly finish a seam.
Thank you so much for this article! ——–Good camera work and lighting, clear-concise instruction, good fabric and thread colors to help see what’s happening, calm soothing voice over. Well done! —– and very helpful indeed. I never really knew the difference between the bias bound edge and HongKong until now.
Well dang, YouTube recommendations actually threw something great my way here. While I finally caved last year and bought a serger for all the Spandex I was sewing, I still hate seeing serged hems. I don’t know why, I just think they are ugly. So this is bookmarked for later reference, I love how your explanations are short and to the point but show all the different types well!
I am a new viewer – well new-ish since I found you through Bernadette and fell in love with your personality via the vlog from 2019 Costume College (which I watched within the last week) You are an inspiration to me to get back to my love of sewing – my hubby is even working with me to try a get a cutting table installed in our room (where all my creative endeavors happen) due to the fact that going up and down stairs to many times irritates my back. Thank You!!
This is brilliant thank you! I love my serger but there are times when it just isn’t ‘right’ and this helps immensely. Your website introduced me to a whole new world of sewing btw- where the values sewing from years gone by are appreciated by a whole new generation of sewing enthusiasts and I love it. 🥰
I love all of these! I’ve been doing 14th century, so turning under and hand-felling seams is my jam for now, but I have a suit on the horizon and I want to do the Hong Kong finish. Maybe even the variant I saw once where you cut the lining fabric extra-wide, sew it right sides together with each individual fashion fabric, turn them and press them, and then you have this weird lining/interlining layer that also finishes all the vertical seems. It looks like complete witchcraft that requires immense precision, but it was so pretty!
I’ve been accidentally sewing the fake French seam without knowing that’s what it was for ages! I don’t have a sewing machine and that seemed like the easiest way to tuck the raw edges away without them showing on the outside – mostly use it when sewing pillow cases to give as gifts. Thank you for this article, especially the clear demonstration of a felled seam
Oh my, I am sewing a lot lately and I just started on a pair of linen dungarees and I was so unsure how to finish the edges because I didn’t only wanted to zigzag them but I don’t own a serger and only knew about the hand overcast and the zig zag way – so you just saved me. Thank you! by the way, I am Paula and I am form germany 🙂
Hello! I found your articles a couple of weeks ago. Currently more into knitting and crochet, but with two years of tayloring education way back when, I’m planning to get started making my own things once more now that I’ve finally got some space for it. Thanks so much for putting all of this out here!
thank you for your article 🙂 Coudl you please talk about presser feet labels for different machines? I have 1 Singer, 1 Brother and 1 Janome, and am so confused with the feet! and my Singer says to use foot “T” for some stitches and foot “A” for others (on the LCD display) and i only have Janome feet, can i use those? are the labels the same? I’m new to sewing and am confused.
Very nice article! I’d never heard of the “mock French seam”, but I could see it being used for some after-the-fact seam finishing – otherwise a real French seam is much easier! I’ve used a zigzag finish on blouses and trousers for 50+ years – holds up well, very little bulk, limited thread usage, fairly quick. Several years ago, I switched to the 3 stitch zigzag because it helps to prevent tunneling and therefore forms a flatter seam.
I have made my own clothes for over 40 years, worked in professional alteration shops and costume shops at theatre departments in colleges. All of these seam edgings are good, but what is easiest is after sewing, cut the 5/8 seam allowance down to 1/4 and zig-zag the edges together. If you are working with knit fabric, FIRST SEW the zig-zag edge 1/4″ from the seam, and THEN CUT the excess off. It makes it easier. If you look at “store bought” clothes, they are done with 1/4″ seam allowances that are overcast together and then pressed to one side. Zig-zaging the edges is the simplest. Every place I have worked where they have had a Serger, it breaks down OFTEN (jams, misfeeds, etc.), and you end up having to use the sewing machine anyway! In a theatre department costume shop, you need to sew the seams “open” and leave them at 5/8″ because you will have to adjust them to fit different actors that will wear them over the years. Otherwise, you do not NEED to leave the seam allowances pressed open.
I’ve had a chaotic 15 years, now with teens, moved house in December. Found a half made simple shift dress in a plastic bag with my many fabrics I use for crafting. Remember I bought the fabric in my 20s and loved simple navy with white lowers and thought “this will be fabulous when Im older, in my 30’s”. I found this dress this week. I still love the fabric, it should still fit. The pattern says “Can be sewn in 2 hours” Well, I turned 50 at the beginning of Covid 19 lockdown!!! It will have taken me not 2 hours but nearly 30 years!! I LOVE sewing and creating and will learn from you and also hopefully, like you, learn to do calligraphy. (Never written on youtube before! Im going to have to learn to translate your using measurement in 8ths! Seems very wonky when lovely decimals are the way to go these days, certainly in Europe and the UK. Hey ho, ca never stop learning. Thank you.
Hi! I’m Emily, and I’m relatively new here. I fell down the CosTube rabbit hole via Bernadette and I haven’t looked back. I’ve been using this time as an opportunity to practice “sew-cial distancing” and have been teaching myself how to sew! I’ve been making masks, caps, and gowns for local clinics, family members, and PSW’s. Also, I am learning that sewing machines are like printers: they are fickle, feckless, and temperamental beasts that defy my logic and reasoning and occasional pleading. (Can someone explain how thread tension works??)
G’Day Marika! Just introducing myself 😉 You produce some really lovely, very professionally finished work – sssshhhh…yeah, we just won’t worry about those unfinished seams from years ago you still haven’t found the time to complete ..haha! I myself have a velvet cloak I made 28 years ago which still hasn’t had the seams properly finished. So, in comparison, you’ve nothing to worry about, Possum! At the beginning of your vid, when I saw the first shots of your machine, I became all excited, as I thought your machine was the same model as mine.. alas no. I looked at your info and saw it was a different model. Still, they share some of the same features. Anyhow, take care up there in Canada during this uncertain time. I look forward to viewing more of your content while I remain comfortably secluded in my cozy Down Under lock down lounge room xx
Thank you very much for presenting this article. Most helpful as a reminder for some methods and instructional for others like the Hong Kong finish and the mock French seam. I wish I had tuned in a couple of weeks ago as I could have used the mock French seam method on a skirt I just made! The fabric was light weight woven polyester and frayed terribly. Should be all good for the future projects though….
Thank you! You inspired me to go back to sewing. I liked the ( pinking Shear method ) spelling sorry, I have to get myself one of those shears!! And I loved the Hong Kong method. It’s been quite sometime that I’ve touched my sewing machine. I’m definitely going to practice those two methods. Thanks again also new to your website. God bless.
Nice article, thank you. Can you help me? I have a Singer 4432. On a thick athletic sock and a ball point needle, I want to install a draw string at the top of the sock. I know how to get the cord in there by folding over the edge but what stitch do I use to close it to maintain elasticity of the sock? Is it the right-pointing overlock stitch? Zig zag? Another one? A combination of stiches? I really appreciate your help.
Oh I feel your pain!! My serger is old we whisper when talking about it… it turned 30 this year. I would not be happy if I lost it. The other day I lost my iron!!! Suddenly it was super heating and scorched my new ironing board cover. I’m still sulking. Fortunately my son has gone back to work to help get the store on line and they had an iron he was able to buy. It’s tiny and just basic but far better than nothing. I still glare at the old one and sulk. I didn’t have time for this foolishness and I doubt you did either!!
I had a basic overlocker, but found it more of a hindrance than help and got rid of in short order. @2:08, my Brother machine has an overcast setting and a foot that goes with it. The stitches look very much like an overlocked edge and nothing has been shaved off. @3:53, nope. Far too fiddly for my fat, sweaty fingers. @4:54, again nope. @5:47, that is effectively a Hong Kong seam finish. The method you employ @8:19 is too time consuming, especially where double fold bias binding will do the same without all the cutting and joining for long seams.
i own a serger but… can i be honest. it is collecting dust. having a bunch of thread on the edges of a garment is super ugly to me. why would i want to make my clothes look like the cheap stuff at the store when i can spend hours meticulously bias binding seams? isn’t sewing supposed to be fun like that? i want to have fun creating finishes i don’t get to see at the store often
Hello! Very dopey question here as I am more of a quilter and not ‘sew’ much of a garment maker: do you finish your seams BEFORE construction of the garment when they are in pieces or do you finish them when done, and how do you nicely finish a curved seam as in the underarm piece or anything that is not a simple straight seam? Thanks in advance!
You’re wonderful. I have the good fortune to have two Babylock sergers with the jet air threading. I just don’t seem to have problems with them. They just purr along wonderfully. I’ve had them for quite a few years.one does cover stitch, and the other does not. I’m sure there are other great sergers out there, but I had two other brands before I bought the Baby Locks and I am sold on them
All my life I have just zigzagged the edges before assembling a garment. Most modern machines have an overlock type stitch although few have cutting feet. I inherited an overlocker a few years ago and got so irritated with the thread breaking I just put it in the cupboard and haven’t touched it since. It uses too much thread and it is a pain in the fundament to rethread every time
I want to make all of my own clothes from now on, and I can’t wait to have my clothes lined and/or have beautiful seams in them. Theres just something that makes it feel 100 times nicer that way. Also, I hate serger seams. They’re ugly and gross and I associate it with cheap clothing. I don’t believe it belongs in hand made clothing. Except to prevent fraying and on t-shirt material.
This was amazing i originally wanted to get a serger at fast as possible. I then learned about stitches like these. The only one I didn’t know was the faux French seam. I always wonder these seams have have been more common when sewing machine were new, sergers made them obsolete but now home sewers want to re discover these great techniques
Quarantine must be getting to you to. I started singing with you. As someone who did not own a serger for many years I can stay this stitches speak volumes. One thing I could never stand was an I fished seam. It just drove me crazy. Where have these stitches been all my life?! Lol Anyways thanks for the tips, I hope quarantine schooling is treating you better than it has me. Because common core math makes no sense to me at all.
i have no serger just a basic sewing machine, and i had trouble enough finding out during the pandemic like i search for weeks online and in stores and no of the places in my area that sell sewing machines had any in stock same as in line and right when i thought i found one for a good price well knowing think about it for the one i wanted the price was too good to be true but i got scammed, after that i think i stopped looking for a couple then bam the one i wanted came back in stocked on amazon and that one i got so i can’t imagine what it like looking for a serger plus i have limited space so i can only have a sewing machine or a serger not both. but this article will be helpful for me in the future also i like you didnt just talk and show us the end result of the seam finish for all them you basically showed us how to do it which is helpful so i didn’t take to look up Separate tutorial afterwords
What a great lesson in finishing at the three levels. Fortunately, I know the seams and I had no knowledge of their names…BTW I learned all of the seams-stitches from my Home Ec class when in high school in the 50s decade… woohoo I still remember and lately have been using some of the finishing seams all thanks to COVID19 who made me rediscover my sewing machine & skills… Thank you so much!…Happy Easter or rather Happy Spring Holidays season.
Best articles, keep these coming….Your personality is amazing and your articles are very interesting, keeps a persons attention, including great camera angles staying on point of the subject and flowing through instruction easily. In some other articles, people talk too much about nothing to do with the subject, poor camera angles (mostly on them, I guess they want to be famous), I lose my interest very quickly or I fall asleep, YEP! Can you do a pattern like a simple T-shirt dress something that we can work off of, a base, and create different styles, including sleeve and knee length…. I’m also looking for something that’s more roomy on the bottom with an “A” cut rather than tight fitting….I’m looking for someone to teach this who actually knows what they’re doing and that’s you, I’m very happy to see someone who is right on point and does a great job teaching, so keep these coming, PLEASE THESE articleS COULD SAVE US ALL! Thank you from an experienced seamstress!
Thank you so much for all of this information. I am a “so-so” sewer who has made all kinds of crafty projects with cottons and some knits and flannel but I am now delving into clothing projects. Because I can’t bring myself to throwing perfectly good clothes out (many of them favorites), I have a whole drawer full of clothes to fix – replace broken zippers, replace elastic and recently decided to make a skirt out of a silky dress that I got on sale with material I love but ended up never wearing because the back was too low cut. It’s a chiffon material with a silky kind of slip underneath. I’m never afraid to try new things and just go for it but sometimes get in over my head. After cutting off the top of the dress, I realized that this may be a challenging project because of the slippery and sheer materials. Anyway, have learned a ton from tips like yours on YouTube and subscribed hoping to learn more from your excellent teaching. With being quarantined, it has forced me to stay home and finally get these projects done. Thank you So much for your help!! Blessings!
Your article was very clear – thank you! My biggest question is how are curved seams handled? Especially once you add in the clipped seam allowance? I bought this gigantic roll of Hug Snug to use but then could never figure out how to apply it over the clipped sections. Needless to say, I got about a third of the way through the construction of my first garment before putting it away in frustration.
You were perusal the Show Must Go On Friday releases too 😀 Very cool This was useful. Thank you. I don’t really sew yet, but eventually I will start making my own dresses and this is great to know, since a serger cost more than I am willing to spend in the next few years. I think I found your articles through perusal something Bernadette Banner or Cathy Hay posted from Costume College. I think I have now watched everyone they have ever talked to in any of their articles and I have somehow been enchanted and now subscribe to all of the CosTubers.
I just love you, you’re personality is the best! So much info I love the way you teach! Thank you for brightening my night, I was so aggrevated with these seams & you sure did help me out! Again, thanks! In had no idea is most of what you just taught me! Wow! Sure wish I’d known before now what we could do with seams!
I bought an interlocking machine a few years back and have not used it much, I prefer to finish by hand. I learned seam finishing by taking items apart over the years and studying how they were done. There was no internet when I learned most of my sewing skills, I had a mother who knew the basics. Now it is so easy to learn so much from these lovely articles. I have used most of these seam finishes over the years and had no idea of their names. I had a wonderful needlework teacher at the age of 11 upwards who was Polish and an ex concentration camp prisoner, she was constantly asked about her number tattoo on her arm bless her. She told me not to keep my fabric pins poked into my sweater as I might injure my breasts! I am nearly 70 and still sewing…….mainly masks at the moment.
Very helpful article, love the bound seams. The only thing I would add, is that when flattening a seam to press it, to get the seam join right at the edge, (especially with the French seam) a tailor once told me, you lick your fingers, then roll the edge of the seam between your fingers, until the seam is right on the edge, it’s the one couture trick I know, but it has come in really handy over the years. After perusal this, I’ve learned a few more tricks 🙂
Well Done: I have sewn most of these seams over the years and I think any new/ish sewer needs to see it. Many others stray off the point or cover several at once which can be confusing. Excellent and clear coverage of each and every seam. One issue I still have is, which seam for which fabric or application? Is there a chart that you know of? I know you covered it but a chart would be helpful. Thanks again..
Hello. Thank you for a wonderful article. I’m totally in love with the turned and stitch method – I was using it for the first time yesterday :)) Iade a skirt and used this method but I had a problem when it came to the in-seam pockets. I used an overcasting stitch around the pockets but it’s not as lovely as the other seams. What method would you recommend for round edges (like the ones in pockets)?
I love the “French” /”English” seam. I made a duvet cover using this seam and it turned out really professional. And I am not afraid of washing it. those seams are sturdy. I am in the process of making curtains. I had to widen them and again I used the “French”/”English” seam. It just looks professional.
Fledgling sewist here! I’ve been working on a variety of basics but am hoping to expand my skill range as I go 🙂 I will say that the machine-done flat felled seam has come in handy for a variety of things I’ve stitched; the single-layer cotton pants I’m working on at the moment, for instance, and a dress pattern I was playing around with. I’m highly tempted to try the mock or actual french seam on a flow-y double gauze caftan top that I have the pieces cut out for but haven’t stitched yet. The gauze is, of course, fragile in that it likes to fray apart where it’s been cut.
Great article, thank you. A lot of these seams I have not stitched since I was at school. Over 50 years ago. However, looking at this as a refresher I can see now why it was important we learnt how to make them. Thanks again for good, clear instruction. We’ve had some stunning days here in the UK so my sewing is on the back burner while my attention is in the garden, with wine preferably. Take good care x
I recently started sewing again after taking a break for years and I already know I am going to love your website, your instruction style is clear and precise, I am going to learn so much. It took a pandemic for me to get back to my love of sewing and very excited. I even was able to pick a new machine from my local sewing shop that has been around for 60 years. I am now sewing on a Baby Lock Jubilee and love the ease of it, very user friendly for this beginner. Keep up the great work and content. I love your energy and enthusiasm and will consider premium membership in the near future. – John
“At home, must have a bit more time” HAH! I have absolutely no time for anything I want to do. Between making sure my son does his work for school, my parents and their list of a million things to do for them, and then house chores, I’m basically begging my son to go to sleep so I can get some sleep. Plus other drama just makes everything much more difficult
oh interesting. i just got into sewing a month ago and just completed my fourth or so skirt made from an old curtain. it was the first sewing project i ever enjoyed actually. 🙂 aaanyway, i got some sewing sizzers recently and there was one of those pinking sheers. i didnt know what to use it for. now i know. thank you!
I never had a serger and I never used one, in fact I know no one owning one. Seems unneccesary in my setup, when I can us zigzag or straight stith to finish the seams, before even sewing the garment together. as mininum you hav to stay stitch curved seams anyway and fabric that fray a lot. And the last us of a Serger is elimated by using twinndls in hems that need to be elastic.
I have a question about finishing the seams! So I see there’s a couple of options where you take the seam allowance and roll it into itself once or twice then sew over it, kind of like when you hem the bottom of a skirt or something. Since you can use a rolled hem presser foot to hem the bottom of a skirt, would you be able to use a rolled hem presser foot to finish the seam then too?